One low key trend in recent years has been the increased use of meteorite within dial designs, so much so that the good ones are setting themselves apart by how they are thoughtfully integrating within the design as a whole. The best example of late, if you ask me, is certainly the Zenith x Hodinkee Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, that used the material in a subtle way within the sub dials. This week, a new Special Projects watch from Kurono Tokyo is taking a similar approach with a dial that uses meteorite in a very intentional way in concert with (and in contrast to) more traditional details you’d expect from the Japanese watchmaker.
Oftentimes, when brands take the step of using a piece of meteorite in the dial of a watch, it has a way of taking front and center in presentation. It’s a striking material thanks to the Widmanstätten pattern that makes each piece unique, and it’s generally tricky to wield with any sense of reservation (or grace). Kurono Tokyo is known for their approach to the small details, from dial accents, the shape of the hands, the hour numerals, and of course, the case. Using meteorite within this context feels a bit like a bull in a china shop, on paper at least. In execution, they’ve managed to preserve their identity while incorporating meteorite.
There are plenty of brands small and large that produce watches that take advantage of the latest material and color trends without taking the requisite time to understand how it fits within their brand identity. When it does happen, it’s worth pausing to appreciate. The Kurono DNA is well preserved here, and as a result the meteorite reveals its diversity. A white lacquered ring that hosts Hajime’s own Calligra typeface painted in high relief sits in serene contrast to the hard lines seen in the stone itself, but never feels overpowered.
Other small details ensure a familiar personality comes through, from the curved edges of the dial, to the unique leaf shaped hands, all set within a 37mm polished steel case. Use of a Miyota 90S5 automatic movement keeps the watch on the accessible end of things, and also keeps the total thickness of the watch in check at 11.5mm including a domed crystal (7mm without that bit). The dial itself is the real focal point here, though, and each one is inspected by Hajime Asaoka personally to ensure only those with enough character are used for assembly.
The meteorite section of the dial was taken from an ancient iron meteorite called Muonionalusta, which is classified as a fine octahedrite (IVA), and known for its striking patterns. It was discovered in the north of Sweden, and is thought to have landed about a million years ago. I like the idea of tying the history of the stone to the watch itself, as it’s part of the story and appeal of owning and wearing it. Just how bits of these things are procured by watch and jewelry brands is another question. Obviously, the supply is finite.
The INSEKI will be limited in production, and priced at $1,850. The watch will go on sale globally on Thursday, 15 January, 11:00 PM JST. Kurono Tokyo