The world of dress watches has evolved in recent years to incorporate ideas and concepts not traditionally associated with the genre. The result has created a division that separates the watches sticking close to the classic script (even if they invented it) from those seeking to expand the definition of what it means to be formal in the first place. Conversely, details once solely associated with dress watches are making their way into a diverse range of watches, blurring the lines between once easily understood and approached genres. One Dutch brand, De Rijke & Co. has proven quite adept at challenging the status quo in all manner of ways, and their most recent watch, called the Capri, looks to carve out new ground within the dress watch category.
The Capri features a sleek square body with an edge to edge sapphire design that feels like something out of the tech world. Rather than a shape defined by its walls, everything is held in place, visually and structurally, by two horizontal bars. The result, while not entirely novel, are indeed unique, and it’s the finer details that push this one into its own category. Taking a wildly different approach to a well understood shape isn’t exactly new for this brand, either.
De Rijke & Co. first made waves with the Amalfi Series, a watch designed for driving. The round design appears rather straightforward at a glance, but a closer inspection reveals that the dial, along with the entire inner case, can be rotated up to 90 degrees on the fly. This is a concept they’ve expanded upon in a few interesting ways, and it’s aided by their wonderful, often playful dial designs. One feature of these watches was their waterfall style viewing window that used a sapphire that curved down to meet the case. No bezel or frame in sight.
This is an idea that has continued into the Capri, with a central dial that appears to expand over the vertical walls of the frame. The hooded bookends at the top and bottom are approached with an architectural mindset, and hide the case screws and strap attachment points. Combined with the glass viewing area, there’s a real retro-futuristic look that emerges, like something out of the Jetsons, or even a world like that depicted in Andrew Niccol’s 1997 film Gattaca. This is heightened by the formality of the rest of the design, which feels clean and intentional at every corner.
The watch itself measures 28.5mm across, and 38mm in length. The use of a hand wound movement from La Joux Perret allows for a total thickness of just 6.5mm, meaning this is a watch that will sufficiently disappear under a cuff, and provide excellent all around ergonomics. There are three dial options being offered for the Capri, including Onyx black, Aventurine, and Capri blue. Each curves slightly at the edge to follow the lines defined by the sapphire (an especially rare detail for stone dials).
I appreciate work from a brand that takes the time to give their ideas the respect they deserve, even if it means fewer releases overall. De Rijke & Co. appears to be doing exactly that, and it has me excited to see what genre they plan to explore next. The Capri is priced at €2,195, and will begin shipping this spring. De Rijke & Co.