Piaget surprised many of us with the release of the Polo 79 in 2024, a watch that captured all the excess decadence of the original Polo released in 1979. The watch was launched in full yellow gold, and featured an intricate case and bracelet integration that was later rendered in white gold. This year, the Polo 79 is further embracing its heritage with a two tone variation that combines the two in brilliant fashion. This is an architecture that lends itself to such a configuration thanks to its construction, and while the all gold examples bring out the chic nature of the design, this two tone example shows off a very different side.
The Polo 79 boasts a case and bracelet design that must be viewed as one singular element, not only visually, but structurally as well. The design of the links and the polished bars that connect them run seamlessly through the dial, the case, and the bracelet. The construction required to achieve this is something that Piaget is uniquely qualified to achieve, thanks to their history and expertise as a jewelry manufacturer. In the hand, every piece of this watch feels tailor made to fit perfectly within the design as a whole, and here, it must also be functional.
In going to a two tone design, the Polo 79 uses brushed white gold links with polished gold connecting rods between them. The hands are gold, while the chapter ring, which consists of small applied dots marking each minute, change depending on the material they are being mounted to. There is no date here, leaving the effect of the pattern to provide maximum impact. And let’s face it, this isn’t the watch for your practical everyday needs. This is a showstopper piece of jewelry just as much as it is a piece of high horology.
Speaking of, Piaget continues to use their ultra-thin caliber 1200P1 manufacture automatic movement with a 22K yellow gold micro-rotor engraved with Piaget’s coat of arms. It is visible through an exhibition back. The thin caliber is needed to allow for the organic curvature of the 38mm case, and keeps the total thickness to 7.45mm. Every bit of that is on display from the side, so it has a lot more presence than you might expect.
Two tone watches have a polarizing reputation, offering a look that can elicit strong emotions from enthusiasts. To my eye, this is how it should be done, and makes a strong case for the concept when treated with respect. The Girard-Perregaux 50th anniversary Laureato is another great example that feels like a natural extension of the design. Yes, it’s a bit throwback, but it also works just as well in contemporary designs. This is an execution that will age with grace.
As much as I’d welcome a steel variation of this watch at a more accessible price point, the full precious metal construction is a big part of what makes this watch special, and that is clearly evident from the moment you pick it up, as it weighs a healthy 200 grams. As is, the two tone Polo 79 is priced at $91,000. Piaget
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