Universal Genève announced a new ownership group with intentions to bring the brand back to its former glory back in 2023, and set expectations that it would be some time before we’d see that come to fruition. In the meantime, however, Universal Genève has made an effort to bring back selective parts of their past using vintage movements in an attempt to put a spotlight on their illustrious heritage. Around this time last year, we saw the Polerouter make a faithful return to its roots using a new-old-stock UG 1-69 micro-rotor movement. This year, we’re getting a recreation of the famous ‘Nina Rindt’ Compax chronograph, and like the Polerouter, these won’t be seeing a commercial production run.
The ‘Nina Rindt’ Compax chronograph from Universal Genève is so named for its connection to Finnish supermodel Nina Rindt, spouse of racing driver Jochen Rindt, who had been photographed wearing the watch trackside affixed to a third party bund style leather strap. The stylish photos propelled the watch to some notoriety, and the lore has kept the watch a sweetheart of the vintage enthusiast community for decades. The look curated by Nina around this watch made it unique, while its connection to the tragic death of Jochen in 1970 cemented its place in history. Even setting all that aside, the watch itself has a great set of bones, with a handsome three register design packing a Valjoux 72, you could argue this watch was always destined to be a classic.
Universal Genève is bringing this watch back with a great deal of respect being paid to what made the original so compelling, and that includes a custom made leather bund style strap. Like the Polerouter, there are only precious metal cases being made for these, which retain the 36mm proportions of the original thanks to the use of an original restored Universal Genève 281 hand wound caliber. Six total references are being produced, three in 18k white gold, and three in 18k red gold, with black, white, and blue dials being represented. Each of the dials are done in grand feu enamel, providing another elevation of the original vision.
For the strap, Universal Genève is collaborating with Japanese leather artisan Satoru Hosoi, who trained in Japan and Italy before working for the likes of Hermes and Moynat. Just two sets of the full six watch collection will be produced, with all proceeds going to Geneva Watchmaking School, the oldest in Switzerland and with historic links to Universal Genève.
The ‘Nina’ Compax chronograph collection elevates every detail of the original while never compromising the concept as a whole. It looks like a reissue, for all intents and purposes, honoring the past in remarkable detail. Just like the Polerouter, there seems to be a real sense of respect being paid to history, and both of these collections help tell the story of what made the brand so special. Still, there is no hint of what we might see when the brand makes a full and proper launch next year, and my hope is that they reserve the reissues for special occasions, such as we’re seeing here, while a new path is laid for more forward looking collections offered to the public. Universal Genève
