Universal Geneve is a name that conjures some of the great sport watches of the mid 20th century thanks to their novel designs and innovative movements. They were ahead of their time, and are responsible for some of the all-time great watches, from the epic Tri-Compax, to the Valjoux 72 powered ‘Nina Rindt’ Compax Chronograph. They are also responsible for one of Gérald Genta’s first hits, the Polerouter. While their influence may have waned from the ‘70s onward, their body of work from the first half of the century is as captivating today as it was then. Because of this, Universal Geneve has long been primed for a resurgence. In a surprising bit of news this week, the same group of investors responsible for Breitling, including Georges Kern, will now have the opportunity to breathe new life into the long dormant legend.
Georges Kern took charge of Breitling back in 2017, and has overseen the modern transformation of the brand, placing them among the top Swiss watchmakers in operation today. His methods could be considered polarizing, often prioritizing optics for the brand by way of big celebrity endorsements (Breitling’s ‘Squads’ as they are known) over the smaller details that enthusiast crowds tend to get caught up in. He’s also notably out of step with many other Swiss watch brand CEOs, which is entirely by design, often zigging when other brands zag. There’s no denying his effectiveness, however, and his unique methods could be exactly what’s needed to bring Universal Geneve back to prominence.
Universal Geneve will require a deft hand if it’s to woo their most ardent enthusiasts. Its success will rely on their ability to tap into the same magic exhibited all those years ago, which was at times subtle. Kern seems keenly aware of this, stating, “As excited as we are, we are also fully aware of the task at hand and the profound heritage we are set to uphold.” Additionally, there is an understanding that the needs of UG are different from that of Breitling, with Kern also saying that “a dedicated team will be brought on board to allow Breitling and Universal Genève to operate as separate maisons”.
This may just be the biggest news of 2023, saved for the final hour, however, this may be an exercise in patience for the time being. My hope is that the new leaders take all the time they need in order to do this properly. Ideally, they can find a way to capture and modernize the look that made UG great, balancing their past with the future they hope to build. That means honoring the great collections from their past in a way that provides a foundation upon which the brand can grow and meet the demands of a new, very different generation of buyers and enthusiasts alike.
Whatever the case, we’ll be rooting for them. Breitling