As has become customary this time of year, there’s a new Speedmaster being released by Omega today, and it’s joining the regular production Moonwatch collection. The new watch boasts a reverse panda dial with a black lacquer base and white sub-dials, all done in a similar manner to the white dial we saw released in early 2024. That dial configuration may sound familiar, because this isn’t the first Speedmaster to feature it, but this one takes a slightly more premium route that leans in a formal direction. So if you’re a Speedy Tuesday owner, don’t grab the pitchforks just yet, there might just be enough space between the two to keep each in their own territory.
The newest Speedmaster further fleshes out the Moonwatch collection with a reverse panda dial being placed in both a steel and 18k gold case. Where a watch like the Speedy Tuesday took the tool-ish route (it was based on an Alaska Project reference, afterall), this new watch takes a decidedly more formal approach. The dual layer black dial is varnished lacquer, providing a gloss base to which white sub-dials are recessed. The rhodium plated hour markers are polished and applied to the dial, so there’s a lot of dimensionality and reflectivity going on here. The polished bits continue into the bracelet, as well. Oh, and the bezel insert is ceramic.
On the whole, this is a watch that will give a more premium vibe to the iconic chronograph, just like the white Speedmaster did upon its release. This is a watch that looks great in photos, but make no mistake, the small differences in dial execution add up to a noticeable departure from the ‘base’ Moonwatch as we know and love it. The depth, the hour markers, and the textures shift the overall vibe of this watch a good deal into formal or premium territory enough to easily set it apart. Compared to the Speedy Tuesday, which even has a fully brushed case, the differences will be even more stark.
This watch keeps the same 42mm twisted lug case, and like the white dial variation, will only be available with an exhibition back (meaning it also gets the applied, polished Omega logo at the top of the dial). The excellent tapered bracelet also remains, though again, only with the polished center links (though a swap would be pretty easy here). And yes, the 3861 caliber is pulling duty inside. In short, all the underpinnings are the same, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Though I do think this dial would absolutely stun in a straight lug 39mm Speedmaster frame.
In addition to being offered in steel, the watch will also get a full 18k gold example, that further pushes the vibe over the top with this one. It’s a look we first saw teased by actor Colman Domingo at the Met Gala earlier this year, something Omega isn’t shy about doing. In fact, I wish more brands would get in this habit to keep the celeb spotting stuff a bit more interesting.
The new Speedmaster will be priced at $10,400 in steel, and $49,300 in 18k gold. These watches are only offered on bracelets, with no strap option available. Omega