Formex are introducing a new collection this week dubbed the Aria, and with it, their own manufacture caliber called the FX01. The collection takes its name from the Italian word for ‘air’ and it sets a clear expectation right off the bat, and on paper, the watch delivers. Top line stats include an integrated bracelet with a 6.9mm thick case, and a total weight under 80 grams (including the bracelet). Check, and check. Formex is no stranger to lightweight cases and exotic materials, but this titanium watch takes a less is more approach that should pay dividends on the wrist. The Aria represents a new chapter for the brand in more ways than one.
The Aria is an integrated bracelet design, and at some angles, lives in the same realm as early ‘00s Oakley designs, with an organic, almost alien-like shape and structure. Angles seem to emerge from soft forms, from the case and bracelet, right to the dial itself. It’s a little intimidating as a result, but only visually. By the numbers, this is an easy watch to get along with thanks to the shape and size of the case, which is 40mm in diameter and 6.9mm in thickness. As this is an integrated design, a 40mm case means there’s a lot of dial here, with just a thin brushed bezel piece providing the framing.
The dial looks like a cloth sheet that’s been laid atop a set of claws, with sharp points emanating from the pill-shaped hour markers. In reality it is stamped from a single piece of brass. A subsidiary seconds dial at six o’clock echoes the point motif. The entire dial is a bowl shaped structure that sits deepest at the hand stack. The finishing, particularly in the sub-dial, does leave something to be desired. As a whole, the design is a little unnerving, but the character that comes through is wholly unique to Formex. This is a brand that embraces a style all their own, and that certainly comes through here.
Formex design language isn’t for everyone, but it’s never boring, and for that I always welcome new expressions such as this. But the real draw here may be the movement within. The FX01 is a new manufacture caliber that features a micro-rotor set up, and silicon bits on the escapement, which feels almost par for the course these days. It is a COSC certified chronometer as well and gets 72 hours of reserve. Impressive stuff for a movement that measures a mere 2.9mm in thickness.
Aesthetically, the movement follows a similar style as we’ve seen from Formex watches of the past, meaning somewhat industrial with a bit of charm that’s hard to put your finger on. The movement was developed by Horage for Formex, and it is proprietary. It’s nice to see this movement structure stretching its legs a bit, but it does mean that the watch is priced at $7,900, which makes it something of an anomaly within the Formex family.
The Aria is launching with three different dials in green, grey, and blue, with each using gold colored accents. This is undoubtedly the first step of many for the collection, and while there are still some unanswered questions around this watch, it lays a strong foundation to build on. Formex
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