Parmigiani is expanding their Tonda collection this week with a new 36mm steel and platinum PF featuring a distinctive Alta Rosa grain d’orge hand-guilloché dial. This same dial color made its debut in the PF Minute Rattrapante, offering a subtle take on a pink hue rarely seen in the watch world, and it’s a perfect nod to the upcoming spring season. In recent years, Parmigiani has displayed a deft hand in crafting a color palette that would make the hippest of interior designers blush, with muted earth tones and pastels set within soft textures underscoring an air of reservation. And yes, they even manage to achieve that with the color pink.

The Tonda PF automatic represents the entry point to the collection, and to the brand itself, and is the purest expression of the modern Tonda design language available. It’s an integrated design that uses a steel 36mm framework with a platinum bezel. The tapering bracelet is affixed between a teardrop lug design that drapes organically around the wrist, and is exceptionally comfortable as a result. The total thickness of just 8.6mm also helps on that front.

With this size case, there is no date complication, leaving the tight rain d’orge hand-guilloché texture unbroken. A set of opened dauphine hands track the time against small applied hour indices with a recessed chapter ring printed in white framing the dial. The whole thing is an exercise in restraint, with no markings or labels on the dial apart from the applied PF logo at 12 o’clock. This watch is a celebration of the fine details which are, in this case somewhat ironically, set against a soft pink dial, which we generally find on watches looking to make a statement.

The manner in which the pink, which Parmigiani refers to Alta Rosa, somehow feels understated and elegant. It also doesn’t necessarily feel entirely feminine, either. It feels more like nature in blossom. Underpinning the dial is the equally lovely PF770 automatic manufacture calibre, which uses a full rotor rather than the micro-rotor found in the larger PF references. The well finished movement is visible through an open caseback.

Parmigiani has taken a very intentional approach to expanding the Tonda PF collection since first introducing it in 2021 with Guido Terreni at the helm. The Tonda name itself dates back to 2007, but with the PF collection, the watch has found its identity. The PF family now includes a variety of complications, sizes, and materials, each of which offer a slightly different expression of the core DNA, but the time-only 36mm variation represents the soul of the idea at its purest.

This watch joins the Tonda PF regular production collection alongside black, slate, and stone blue dial examples within the same steel and platinum architecture. Pricing is set at $25,800. Parmigiani Fleurier

