The Chronomaster Revival series has been a perennial favorite since its debut in 2019 to celebrate 50 years of the El Primero. The collection has been fleshed out with some of the brand’s greatest hits seen throughout the 1970s, (with a few modern takes along the way) and the old-school proportions are just as compelling today as they were back then. After a relatively quiet release season for the collection, this week we’re getting a new A384 featuring a tropical dial in a nod to rare examples of the original which managed to age with a warm grace.
The term ‘tropical’ dial emerged at some point in the ‘90s as a way for collectors (and dealers) to describe dials that had taken on warm brown tones in the aging process, resulting in an attractive and unique (i.e. desirable) look. Exactly how dials take on this appearance has been the subject of much debate, with original owners providing anecdotal evidence ranging from frequent usage in the sun, to sitting in a dark drawer for a decade. In reality, some UV exposure is required, and environmental conditions such as humidity also seem to play a role. Of course, defects in the paint used was also a factor. Whatever the case, these dials have become highly coveted by collectors.
Original examples of this specific reference from Zenith that feature tropical dials have sold for as much as $50,000 at auction, and while rare, they do pop up from time to time. The look works well with the base eggshell/off-white portion of the dial, and the overall funky shape of the case lends to the old-school character it evokes. Zenith has captured this vibe quite effectively in a new Chronomaster Revival A384 that touches on the same qualities but with a modern build quality (and without the need to try your luck at auction).
The underlying framework remains unchanged, with a steel case measuring 37mm in diameter and 12.6mm thick. It’s fit to a steel ladder bracelet in the same style as the original Gay Frères design. Inside beats the El Primero caliber 400 which is visible through an open caseback. It’s all good stuff, and doesn’t get in the way of capturing the original experience of the watch as it would have been in 1969 upon release. Zenith have succeeded here by getting out of the way and letting the design speak for itself.
The dial is the real star here, with the tropical theme working exceptionally well with this design. It’s not the first time Zenith have approached the theme, either, with a warm brown gradient dial appearing on a Revival A385 back in 2021. To my eye, this A384 works even better and accentuates the unique shape of the case, and leans into natural contrast over a gradient approach. The newest member of the Revival series will be a regular production addition, and is priced at $10,000. Zenith
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