This week, Devin Pennypacker of the Time Well Spent podcast returns to preview the upcoming Watches & Wonder 2026 taking place in Geneva this April. We chat about our expectations and even make a few predictions along the way (more on that below). This is part one of a two part episode recorded in collaboration with the Time Well Spent podcast, who will be hosting part two.
Making predictions about what we might see at Watches & Wonders is a(n almost always) fruitless exercise as far as accuracy is concerned. However, it is a great exercise to frame and identify trends as well as come to terms with your own tastes and preferences. Sure, we don’t expect to see any of these watches actually released, but it highlights the differences between where we often find ourselves as enthusiasts and collectors, and the decisions ultimately made by the brands as businesses for their own sense of self preservation. The gulf between those two things can be big or small, but it’s always fertile ground for discussion.
With that, here are ten watch predictions from Blake Buettner and Devin Pennypacker, each of whom took a slightly different route. The first five represent an examination of sensible options in front of brands that take things like anniversaries and trends into account, while the second set of five represent, well, watches that Blake Buettner would be motivated to buy.
Devin Pennypacker
The modern watch news cycle moves at a pace that would have felt unimaginable and frankly unsustainable even five years ago. Releases explode like fireworks, lighting up the front pages of every blog, only to be buried just as quickly under the wave of dial tweaks, material swaps, and minute incremental upgrades. This is not because brands lack imagination, but because we demand constant entertainment while quietly accepting that our collective attention spans have shifted into goldfish territory.
And yet, Watches & Wonders 2026 feels a bit different. The market is shifting, and enthusiast sentiment is shifting along with it. Hype culture, once a rising tide to be ridden, is recalibrating and erratic. Brands are jockeying for position with sharper awareness that momentum alone no longer guarantees. Add in a slate of meaningful anniversaries, moments that historically invite bold statements and celebratory pieces, and the stage is set for something more consequential. We’ve already seen the early signals from the likes of Audemars Piguet unloading a barrage of releases and Tudor opening its door to unprecedented transparency.
With that in mind, here are five predictions, some anniversary-driven and others less obvious, as the industry gathers once again to define its next chapter.
TUDOR – Royal North
If Tudor is serious about celebrating its history while capitalizing on this moment of recalibration, the answer may not be entirely new, but intelligently recombined. The discontinued North Flag marked a pivotal chapter for the brand, showcasing its in-house manufacturing capabilities and signaling a push toward self-reliance. Perhaps ahead of its time, the quasi-integrated sports watch carried quirks that caused many to look at it sideways. Yet since leaving production, it has quietly reemerged in enthusiast circles as a cult classic, sought out by collectors looking for something different.
At the same time, the Tudor Royal, introduced as a more accessible integrated dress watch, has seen little meaningful evolution since launch. While it maintains a foothold in the dress-sport segment, it feels increasingly disconnected from Tudor’s modern tool-watch identity, still relying on sourced movements and a design language that grows less aligned with the brand each year.
Enter the Tudor Royal North.
Imagine a more refined 41mm North Flag case, fully brushed to emphasize durability and daily wear, paired with an integrated H-link bracelet that nods to the original’s industrial charm. The ceramic bezel remains, its black ring framed by steel for unmistakable technical presence. The dial goes matte black and cleaner than before, with both the power reserve indicator and date window removed in favor of symmetry. Ranger-style hands in steel with white lume prioritize legibility, while the signature yellow seconds hand returns, now matched by restrained “Royal North” text on the dial. Familiar indices remain, but Rolex Explorer-style 3, 6, and 9 numerals join the applied Arabic 12 to anchor the layout with visual authority.
Water resistance sits at a practical 100 meters. Inside beats an in-house, METAS-certified MT caliber, reaffirming Tudor’s commitment to its manufacturing prowess. The integrated bracelet incorporates Tudor’s on-the-fly adjustment system, and the watch would also ship with a fitted rubber strap equipped with T-Fit for added versatility.
The result would feel less like nostalgia and more like course correction. A confident, purpose-built integrated sports watch that reconnects Tudor’s tool-watch credibility with modern expectations and quietly dares you to take it somewhere worth wearing.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE – Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Milanese
If there is one prediction on this list that feels shocking in spite of its simplicity, it is a steel execution of the Reverso Tribute Monoface on its Milanese bracelet. Last year’s pink gold version proved just how effortlessly Jaeger-LeCoultre can make restraint feel opulent, pairing the iconic Art Deco geometry of the Reverso case with a fluid mesh bracelet that drapes across the wrist like heavy fabric. Translating that same watch into steel may sound like little more than a material swap, but in practice, and especially in the metal, it would be transformative.
Steel would certainly make the piece more attainable, but more importantly it would sharpen it. The cooler tone would amplify its monochromatic elegance, pulling focus toward the subtle grain of the dial and giving the watch a more architectural, almost industrial presence on the wrist. While gold is traditionally viewed as precious, it is also more forgiving to work with. Executing the same level of finishing, articulation, and polish in steel would quietly showcase Jaeger-LeCoultre’s manufacturing mastery in a way that feels less declarative and more assured.
In what feels like a slightly turbulent moment for the brand amid recent headlines, a steel Reverso Tribute Monoface Milanese would serve as a grounding statement, one that pays tribute to the model’s enduring iconography while reinforcing modern technical capability. Jaeger-LeCoultre will undoubtedly unveil high complications, exotic materials, and mechanical theater, as it always does. But at this point, we expect exceptional from the brand. In that context, steel might actually be the boldest move of all.
IWC – Ingenieur Titanium with a Yellow Dial
If there is a brand poised, and accustomed, to injecting energy into its existing lineup without compromising identity, it is IWC. The modern Ingenieur has already established itself as a serious contender, particularly in titanium, where muted monochromatic greys lean fully into the model’s industrial roots. However, for the 50th anniversary of the original Ingenieur SL from 1976, restraint alone may not be enough.
Enter a titanium Ingenieur with a blazing yellow dial, accompanied by a handful of meaningful refinements.
The aqua and green variants proved the platform can handle color without losing credibility. A saturated yellow would go even further, channeling the experimental optimism of the 1970s while immediately distinguishing itself from the current lineup and the broader sea of integrated sports watches on the market. Against the matte, bead-blasted titanium case and bracelet, with its slightly warmer tone, the dial would feel electric. Not playful, but purposeful. A reminder that the Ingenieur has always carried a streak of rebellion in its DNA.
Beyond the dial, subtle updates would elevate the watch while paying tribute to its roots. A sapphire display caseback would open the architecture to view, allowing the movement to participate in the anniversary narrative and even creating space for a commemorative rotor detail. Nearly unnoticed by most, rotating the bezel so that the five rivets appear inverted would echo the orientation seen on original SL models in period advertisements, a quiet nod to collectors who know where to look. And perhaps most importantly, the addition of an on-the-fly micro-adjustment system in the standard titanium bracelet would bring the Ingenieur in line with modern expectations, following the practical upgrades we have seen from recent integrated designs by Girard-Perregaux and Formex.
The result would not reinvent the Ingenieur. It would refine it, energize it, and remind enthusiasts why the platform deserved revival in the first place. Sometimes an anniversary piece does not require more complication. Sometimes it simply needs more conviction.
Let’s be honest, though. This one would likely be just as difficult to secure in the early days as the rest of the line.
ROLEX – Milgauss
In recent years, few discontinuations sparked as much discontent in the collector community as the Milgauss. For a watch that always lived slightly outside the mainstream of Rolex sports models, it commanded an outsized cult following, one that has only grown in mythical proportions. As we approach 70 years since the Milgauss first entered the catalog, the stage feels perfectly set for its return. Not as a nostalgia play, but as a recalibrated scientific instrument for a modern era pushing precision.
This resurrected Milgauss would blend cues from the original reference with the most recent generation, while introducing meaningful updates of its own. The case would adopt the modern Oyster architecture and bracelet proportions of the upsized Explorer, giving the watch a clean balance of tool and instrument. Returning to its origins, the dial would be black lacquer with a woven texture reminiscent of the earliest models. At 12 o’clock, an applied coronet would anchor the layout, while round applied hour markers—something no other non-bezeled Rolex currently features, though the Milgauss once did—would frame the dial. At 3, 6, and 9, triangular markers pulled directly from early references would inject historical tension into an otherwise contemporary design.
Dial text remains restrained: “Rolex Oyster Perpetual” in white standing over “Milgauss” printed in bold red just above the hands. Speaking of hands, this version reverts to dauphine-style hour and minute hands, polished and faceted with central lume strips, paired with the signature lightning-bolt seconds hand, now executed in red as a nod to the original’s playful accent.
Alongside the watch itself, Rolex would likely use the relaunch to introduce a new-generation movement, positioning the Milgauss once again as a proving ground. The anti-magnetic narrative that defined the original evolves into a broader story, highlighting heightened internal testing standards and next-level chronometric resilience. In true Rolex fashion, the technical advancement would be just as important as the aesthetic revival.
Seventy years on and now a cult classic, the Milgauss does not need to be louder. It needs to be smarter. If Rolex chooses to bring the model back, it will almost certainly do so on its own terms and with distinct purpose.
CHOPARD – ‘lil’ L.U.C. Quattro Mark IV
For its 30th anniversary, Chopard looks inward rather than outward, embracing restraint in a way that feels distinctly contemporary and true to the brand. You’ve seen the 40mm L.U.C Quattro Mark IV; now enter the affectionate Lil L.U.C Quattro Mark IV, refined to a more wrist-friendly 35mm. While the original impressed with technical ambition and exceptional finishing, this smaller execution demonstrates that Chopard can condense excellence without compromise. The movement has been miniaturized to fit the more modest proportions, yet retains the same technical specifications as the original, quietly pushing the boundaries of a brand often underrated for its watchmaking feats.
The Lil L.U.C also underscores what has long set Chopard apart: exceptional finishing. Every bevel, every polished surface, every subtle texture across its grained dial and flawlessly executed movement is a quiet demonstration of the brand’s craftsmanship. The combination of scaled-down dimensions with uncompromising technical achievement signals a confidence in understatement, a trend increasingly embraced by high-end independents and manufacture-led brands alike. For collectors who have admired the original Quattro’s mechanics and finishing, the Mark IV offers the rare opportunity to wear that excellence on a smaller, more modern canvas, making it a restrained celebration of 30 years of Chopard’s craft.
Conclusion
Of course, it’s worth reminding everyone that these are just my predictions, educated guesses at best, flights of fancy at worst. I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about Watches & Wonders 2026, but I can guarantee that by putting these ideas on paper, I’ve almost certainly ensured that none of them will actually happen. Still, there’s fun in imagining the possibilities: the reimagined Royal North, a steel Reverso that surprises with restraint and a lack of preciousness, an audacious yellow Ingenieur, the reborn Milgauss, and the diminutive Lil L.U.C all paint a picture of what could be. Whether any of these come to life or not, the exercise itself says something about the current state of watchmaking, an era where heritage, innovation, and a little mischief collide. Consider this a small invitation to dream, debate, and enjoy the show, even if reality decides to take a slightly different path. I, however, will continue to drift down the path of ridiculousness.
Blake Buettner
I’ll be honest, I’m not a guy that pays a ton of attention to the actual business side of the Swiss watch industry. The numbers just don’t interest me all that much, and while I keep half an eye on business reports to keep myself abreast of the state and health of the industry as whole, this isn’t a motivating factor for my desire to talk about watches for a living. With that, these aspirational predictions aren’t likely to align with any reasonable business case to be made for their existence. They are here simply because they are watches I’d like to see.
Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph
Audemars Piguet is making their debut appearance at Watches & Wonders this year (though they were a mainstay of the previous SIHH show in Geneva), and I’d like to see the brand lean into their watchmaking prowess with a new Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph. Last year, AP released their final Research and Development watch in the RD5, a Royal Oak Chronograph in a Jumbo case with a tourbillon, and one of the most innovative chronograph works designs ever put to metal. The concept is so impressive that I feel it deserves a place in the regular production catalog in the confines of the already excellent Royal Oak Jumbo.
Okay, so this is basically the RD5 with the tourbillon removed, and honestly I think that’s all it really needs to be. Perhaps an execution in their ceramic or BMG would work, but that’s not entirely necessary. The star of the show is the ultra thin chronograph movement, and those svelte pushers. Yes it would be unobtainable, but it would be a welcome addition to the Royal Oak collection as a whole.
Sinn – EZM1
Another brand making their first appearance at Watches & Wonders this year is Sinn, the German tool watch manufacturer extraordinaire. There are many Sinn watches I’d like to see, and while I enjoy the current state of their dive watch range, what I’d really love to see is a return of the original mission timer, the EZM1, at its original size, and with the crown on the right hand side of the case.
The original EZM1 is one of the all-time great in my book. An uncompromising chronograph that refuses to be defined by that single complication. By centrally mounting the timing functions, there are no small sub-dials to read, and no distractions from the core purpose. Even the text on the dial is rendered in red so as not to interfere with at-a-glance legibility. It’s a wonderful design, and one that I’d love to see the brand return to with a more traditional case layout.
Zenith A3821 Revival
I have a huge soft spot for funky Zenith designs from the 70s, and perhaps none more so than the A3821. This is a strange pilot / diver hybrid watch that works way better than it should, and it represents exactly the kind of risk I want to see from modern Zenith. This is a dial that I think would work rather well in the Defy Extreme Diver case setup, even with a similar bezel. It shows they’ve got other tricks up their sleeve, and puts a spotlight on a different part of their heritage in the process.
This is one watch I’m sure won’t see the light of day, but this is a realm of designs that I feel deserves more attention within the ‘Revival’ framework that Zenith already employs. Putting some of those designs in the modern case structure seen in the regular Defy collection is a recipe for something unexpected and interesting, and I’m here for it.
Rolex Explorer II in Titanium
This is a watch I’ve been hoping to see since Rolex got into the titanium game with the RLX Yacht-Master. The larger frame of the current Explorer II is a perfect candidate for the lightweight material, and short of going back to its original dimensions, this is the solution. There’s nothing fancy here, and they can use the existing dials and movements, really this is just a material swap. If they can make a solid gold Deepsea, there’s no reason we shouldn’t have a titanium Explorer II.
Of course, there are a number of collections I’d love to see RLX titanium used, but the Explorer II just makes the most sense. But a Sea-Dweller 43 also makes a lot of sense. And so does the Submariner. Less so, but a fully brushed titanium Daytona would also be welcome now that I think of it. At the end of the day, I just want to see more RLX titanium references from Rolex.
Tudor ‘Monte Carlo’ Chronograph
This year marks the 100th anniversary of Tudor, and to mark the occasion, I think the brand should highlight some of their most original designs. Chief among them is the chronograph references from the ‘70s like 7169. This is a look unique to Tudor, and it deserves a place in the modern catalog. It would also offer the brand a new avenue for development outside of the confines of the dive-centric Black Bay and Pelagos lines (both of which house chronographs).
The so-called ‘Monte Carlo’ and ‘Homeplate’ designs were referenced in the now discontinued Heritage Chronograph collection. The dial designs of those watches were spot on, but the case needs some refinement to get in the same ballpark of what we had in the ‘70s, and that’s exactly what I’ve envisioned here.
Conclusion
Brands don’t need to overthink things or chase trends, they need to put the time into understanding their identity. In reality, I am sure we’ll see more watches that move upstream to capture the well-healed customers more than the average enthusiast, but the vision championed by those enthusiasts represents longevity.
Podcast Show Notes:
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 BLRO
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