Ulysse Nardin has an impressive resume of horological innovation, and while you may not have noticed it, they’ve shown no signs of slowing down. Among the brand’s most significant developments in recent years is the Anchor Escapement, with a circular frame and fixed palette fork receiving impulse from two blade springs providing a constant force. The Anchor Escapement, which made its debut in 2016, was a culmination of not only their mechanical knowhow, but their grasp on material sciences, each a necessity in bringing the vision to life. This week, we’re getting a new take on the Anchor Escapement within a new Blast watch called the Free Wheel Maillechort, and it’s got the ‘wow’ factor on lock down.
When the Anchor Escapement made its debut in 2016, it did so in the context of a tourbillon, which made for a rather fascinating sight. There is no anchor pivot in sight, and there is no familiar balance spring. With this latest Blast reference, Ulysse Nardin returns to this formula, but amps up the drama by isolating the mechanism atop the dial, along with all of the other vital components. The results feel a bit mysterious, given there are no visible connection points between the power source, the regulating organ, and the hands themselves.
Each of these elements is placed atop a Maillechort dial, an alloy of copper, zinc, and nickel with a grain-like texture. The combination of textures and warm tones serves as a perfect base to host the vital systems that comprise the caliber UN-176 within. The flying tourbillon hosting that unique Anchor Escapement remains the start of the show here, however. The silicon components represent the only bits of color that stand out against the otherwise monotone palette. The spines of the escape wheel penetrate the negative space of the dial as the entire system makes a rotation each minute, more than making up for the lack of a hypnotic traditional balance spring spinning back and forth.
At the top of the dial you’ll find a double barrel system that provides seven days of reserve to the hand wound movement. The status of that reserve can be monitored via the power reserve indication set at four o’clock on the dial. The style of everything feels like something out of Star Trek, all of which is three dimensional, and viewable from the sides of the watch thanks to the built up glassbox style case. The whole thing measures 45mm in diameter, and nearly the entirety of that is dominated by the dial itself, taking full advantage of the Maillechort canvas.
This watch feels like a cohesive vision from Ulysse Nardin, and breaks new ground stylistically for the brand, building on the modern design DNA begging developed with the likes of the Freak X. I think it works quite well here, and provides a suitable platform through which the brand can boast their horological innovation and originality. I’m also happy to be reminded of novel escapement designs such as this, which have been suspiciously absent over the past few years, save for the likes of the Rolex Dynapulse. We need more crazy innovative steps to be made and Ulysse Nardin is just the brand to deliver.
Just 50 examples of the Blast Free Wheel Maillechort will be produced, with each being priced at $126,600. Ulysse Nardin