Tudor has addressed long standing requests for a more compact chronograph with the release of the new Black Bay Chrono 39, a 39mm take on the complication that also boasts a trim(mer) 13.1mm thick case. It’s a framework many of us have been hoping for and anticipating, though in true Tudor fashion, there’s a twist. The Chrono 39 is being launched with a bright yellow dial and black accents, earning the nickname ‘Bumblebee’ in the process. The instantly polarizing dial decision will be the talking point, but as usual, the bigger story lies within the new case, which houses a familiar caliber MT5813.
The Chrono 39 represents a new development path within the expansive Black Bay family, and seems poised to flourish with a variety of iterations that not only capture the vibrant personality Tudor is embracing today, but also more classic palettes as we’ve seen in the past. The important part is the underlying structure, and that’s what makes this release such a big deal. The steel case measures 39mm in diameter and 13.1mm in thickness, which includes a domed crystal. The three link bracelet also does away with the ‘rivet’ design, presenting as a clean, more mature take on the chronograph as a result.
It’s worth pointing out that the movement being used here is the existing MT5813, a COSC certified affair with all bells and whistles you’d expect in this price range (silicon balance spring, vertical clutch and column wheel, etc.); it’s the same unit you’ll find in the existing Black Bay Chronograph and FXD Chronograph references. That last bit is peculiar, as it means the movement wasn’t the limiting factor in how thick or thin those cases could be designed. It’s exactly the same situation as the Black Bay GMT and FXD GMT using the same movement, even though the case of the former is nearly 2mm thicker. It of course begs the question, why hasn’t the Black Bay Chronograph always been 13.1mm thick?
Whatever the case may be, more options are always a good thing. For some enthusiasts, the bigger cases are a feature, not a bug. Still, wearability is wearability at any size. The new Chrono 39 should go a long way in providing exactly that for many of us, and I think a thinner case even on the larger models would be a welcome move, just like it would be in the larger Black Bay GMT, especially knowing the movement would allow it.
Obviously, the first you will notice about this watch is the bright yellow dial with black accents. It won’t be for everyone, just like the pink and blue chronographs released by Tudor in previous years. It is what it is, and while it might not make a great daily wear option as a result, it’s got some personality that would make for a great fourth or fifth watch in the rotation. Tudor claims that the snowflake hand set has been redesigned to provide better sub-dial legibility, though exactly what that entails is less clear.
Overall, this watch is great news for fans of the brand, regardless of your stance on this particular dial. The Black Bay Chrono is a popular reference and has seen a range of dial iterations added over its production span, and I see no reason that it won’t be a similar story with the Chrono 39. Of course, I’ve been wrong about exactly this kind of thing in the past, so maybe take that with a grain of salt. One detail that will feel a bit off for long-time Tudor owners is the price, which is $6,725. This is serious money that changes the value proposition a bit, though in the bigger picture it feels inline with what we’re seeing elsewhere. Tudor
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