In their fifth year of operation, Studio Underd0g is introducing their fourth collection this week called the 04SERIES, and in doing so, show off a new design around a new suite of complications. The new collection features a unique retrograde calendar framing a moonphase at the bottom of the dial, and is being launched in four colorways across two different case sizes, and will be priced at $1,100, representing a welcome value for the feature set. This is a brand known for its high-key visuals and vibrant palettes, and while the 04SERIES strikes a slightly formal tone, it doesn’t take its foot off the gas in terms of personality.
To bring the 04SERIES to life, Studio Underd0g worked with movement supplier Seagull to develop a new caliber called the ST-2115B, which required the creation of 34 bespoke pieces to meet the specific needs of the design. In addition to keeping the time, the movement features a retrograde date complication, complete with 31 individual apertures allowing for the weekends of each month to be tracked. White squares fill in the days of the week, while accent colors of each colorway highlight the weekend dates of the month. This requires an adjustment each month using a pusher located on the case.
The hand tracking the date is retrograde, so it will snap back to the first of the month rather than making a complete trip around the dial. This is to provide full clarity for the moonphase indication that sits at the bottom of the dial. In total, it’s a handsome take on the partial calendar with a unique point of view prioritizing the weekend. The leaf shaped hands lean into the formal quality of the set up, while the overtly modern brand logo at the top of the dial cuts a strong contrast to everything else going on, for better or worse.
One trend I like seeing here is the introduction in two different sizes, though they may not be the sizes you’d expect. All four colorways will be offered in either 37mm or 38.5mm diameter cases, which may not sound like much of a difference, but creates just enough space between the two to hit different buyers. The 38.5mm case uses a broader bezel so the overall design doesn’t feel larger. Total thickness is 13.5mm, though that includes a rather tall crystal over the dial, so wearability should be just fine.
The four colorways each bring a unique personality to the table, and aren’t afraid to lean into big colors. From red mixed with purple accents, to wheat and teal, there’s a sense of levity with each of them and I think that’s an important part of the Studio Underd0g identity to preserve here. This is a design that will lend itself to special colors and limited editions which are sure to follow.
This is the first big step in a new direction for Studio Underd0g, and the 04SERIES fits nicely within the existing portfolio of the brand. It offers a great value and retains the strong personality we’ve come to expect from the Great Britain based outfit. The logo at the top of the dial may be a sticking point, and I’d love to see this kind of a design using those beautifully layered dials from the 02SERIES, but I have a feeling this is just the beginning for the 04SERIES. Studio Underd0g
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