Parmigiani continues to methodically build on the momentum of their core collections with new Toric and Tonda PF watches that expand the vision of each. The Toric in particular remains one of the most compelling glow-ups to be released in recent years, and it’s a collection that has welcomed additional complications, from a chronograph to a repeater, all this year. Meanwhile, the Tonda PF sees a new cleverly hidden complication in the Chronograph Mystérieux, building on what began with a GMT Rattrapante back in 2022. In the metal, these new watches tell a story of consistency in a new generation for Parmigiani.
Beginning with the Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux, we find a watch that builds on existing themes that we’ve seen play out since that GMT Rattrapante was released. The idea is based on nesting a complication in a manner that more or less provides its core functionality without compromising the simplicity of the design as a whole. These have worked with varying degrees of success in the past, and the chronograph feels like a logical next step. In the hand, it works exactly as advertised, though it feels more novelty than practical consideration.
The idea of hiding the timing hands on the central hand stack when not in use is good in theory. In practice, it’s a bit convoluted as the hands are difficult to differentiate at a glance. I do think using just a single minute totalizer rendered in a higher contrast manner would have been more effective here, but the concept as a whole works quite well. Additionally, as I mentioned when introducing the watch, the seconds hand simply picks up where it left off from timing, so if you’re the type that likes to set the watch at the top of the minute, this will be a non-starter. Obviously, that’s a small detail, but then again, Parmigiani has taken the time to develop it as a practical solution.
Overall, the Chronograph Mystérieux is an interesting watch, and an original expression of the chronograph complication. That said, I don’t find it to be a particularly compelling chronograph in use. I’d likely opt for the GMT or a simple time-only Tonda PF if I wanted this look, which would provide a more well rounded on-wrist experience.
Moving to the Toric, we first find the Petit Seconde celebrating the 30th anniversary of the collection. The Toric has been a transcendent design in its current form, which was introduced in 2024, and this particular example is no exception. This watch uses a hand-hammered white gold dial in ‘morning blue’ that walks a fine line between rough and egg shell soft. The overall effect is quite beautiful, and it’s a quality that appears in all of the Toric anniversary pieces.
This watch uses a hand-wound caliber PF780-AN with rose gold bridges adorned with double hand-guilloché Clous de Paris and Filet sauté. This is fit within a 40.6mm platinum case that uses a coin edge bezel and a softly curved profile. It feels like a watch that should be a bit smaller, but the sectioned dial keeps everything in balance.
Finally, the Toric Carillon Tourbillon sits at the apex of the anniversary collection, and it’s a bit different from the others. The first thing you’ll notice about this watch are the hammers placed into recesses of the dial, which, along with the wave like resonator surrounding the dial, immediately give this watch up as a repeater. But that’s only half the story, as there are a total of four gongs that are used separately, and in conjunction with one another to create distinct tones marking the hours, the minutes, and the quarters. On top of all that, the PF950 caliber also employs a 60 second tourbillon, and a robust 12 day power reserve.
There’s a lot going on here, but the presentation remains simple, with the hand hammered dial serving as the visual core of the design. The box crystal and chiming elements visible from the dial side all bring a distinct aesthetic that compliments the dial and hands. Turning the watch over reveals a far more chaotic scene. Plates within the movement get a mezzo vibrato engraving that is a bit dizzying to look at, but is meant to underscore the visual of sound. It’s not traditional, but it is interesting, and it won’t be to everyone’s taste.
Just five examples of the Carillon Tourbillon will be produced, and at a staggering CHF 490,000, it certainly isn’t priced for everyone, either. What it does do is flex some of the Parmigiani’s manufacturing capabilities, and shows just how versatile the Toric platform can be when pushed to extremes. Parmigiani