Five Watches from 2023 That Are Worth Remembering

This year continued the trend of frantic release schedules by most brands, offering new renditions, re-launching collections, or even introducing new collections altogether at break-neck pace. There was no shortage of truly great watches released this year, leaving us mostly spoiled for choice, but there are always a small handful that make a deeper impression than the rest. These are the watches that generally stand up to the test of time, and keep their luster even as trends shift and change. 

Here are 5 watches that made such an impression on us this year.

IWC Ingenieur 40

IWC finally gave us the Ingenieur we’ve been asking for, returning the watch to its Gerald Genta era roots with an integrated bracelet design. The new Ingenieur 40 delivers where it needs to, and while the discussion around its price is valid, there’s no denying what the watch gets right. The bracelet is a revelation, and the size and shape of the case allows for a truly exceptional watch on the wrist. It isn’t without fault, and IWC has struggled to get these watches into the market in a timely fashion, but this watch is exactly what the relaunch of the collection needed, and it bodes well for what we might expect from the collection moving forward. 

The Ingenieur 40 is one of the best all around releases of 2023 not just because of its historical significance, but also because it’s just a great looking watch. The dial texture is polarizing, and the aqua color in particular is one of the most dynamic dials we’ve seen in years. 
Our in-depth review of the new Ingenieur is coming soon, but in the meantime don’t miss this retrospective of the 3239 reference released in 2013 for some context.

Tudor Pelagos FXD Black

The Tudor FXD has been something of an anomaly since it was released in late 2021. It’s beloved (or hated) for its quirky features like a bi-directional countdown bezel and fixed lug case design, made specially for the Marine Nationale. This year, the FXD collection welcomed three new watches, including two special editions made to honor the brand’s partnership with the Red Bull Alinghi Racing team. The final release into the FXD collection came in Florida at The Man In The Sea Museum, and it was a black on black colorway that recalled the original Tudor dive watches issued to the US Navy UDT team, or what would become the SEALs. 

Sure, this is just a new colorway, but the black on black form factor elevates the FXD to a more approachable watch overall, which is helped by the more traditional elapsed time bezel, and more robust strap option. It’s a breath of fresh air for the FXD and signals a bright future for the serious end of Tudor’s dive watch collection, the Pelagos. See it side by side with the Pelagos 39 right here.

Rolex 1908

Rolex had an absolutely stacked year of releases at Watches & Wonders, which saw new watches across a wide range of collections, including entirely new generations of watches like the Daytona and the dressy-ish 1908 taking the place of the Cellini collection. There were plenty of attention grabbing releases, but one that has stuck with us is the 1908, which offers a striking new look at Rolex’s formal design language. 

While the 1908 is indeed formal wear, it brings with it a slight air of old-school field watch that we think could prove very flexible in use. The applied numerals at 12, 3, and 9 o’clock frame a sub seconds dial at 6 with restraint, making each detail something to savor. The hour hand and long hour batons bring a subtle personality to the mix. Overall this is a beautiful release that we could see growing into complications in the coming years, and it’s one of our favorite releases of the year.

TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox

The TAG Heuer Carrera is an iconic sport watch with roots in the early ‘60s, and while its path forward hasn’t always been an easy one, TAG Heuer gave us one of the best iterations of the Carrera in generations this year with a new 39mm glassbox design. The dial design has received a modern translation that perfectly encapsulates the handsome features we’ve come to love from the Carrera, without looking like a throwback. In the process, they’ve presented a new sculptural form under the crystal that is defiant in execution. 

The size and finish of the case are also worth noting here, offering a perfectly wearable frame for the visually much larger dial and crystal presentation. It’s a formula that has proven effective across a wide range of colors and compositions, with a new Skipper addition proving just how well the design takes to bold colors. The new Carrera has paved the way for a bright future with this generation, and this year is only the beginning. 

Furlan Marri Perpetual Calendar for Only Watch

There are a lot of small/micro independent brands doing exciting things these days, and that was best exemplified this year by Furlan Marri, and their secular Perpetual Calendar for Only Watch. While the auction itself has been postponed for the time being (that’s a story for another day), the watches produced by the participating brands are still worth consideration. The Furlan Marri Perpetual Calendar was developed with the help of Dominique Renaud and Julien Tixier upon La Joux-Perret’s G100 movement, which includes a secular module, keeping the calendar accurate for 4 centuries. 

Not only is the watch beautifully designed, it also represents a relatively accessible perpetual calendar from a young brand known for their attention to detail. If this is a route forward for Furlan Marri, we are absolutely here for it. Further, this watch serves as a representation of exactly the kind of ingenuity and creative thinking that make the micro-brand space so compelling at the moment. The release of a commercial version of this watch would be a moment similar to the release of the C1 Bel Canto by Christopher Ward, and further re-define a portion of the industry in the process. This may just be the watch that has us the most excited about what’s to come. 

Bonus: MB&F HM11 and Omega PloProf

A couple of bonus picks here that are worth mentioning. First is the latest Horological Machine from MB&F, the HM11. This watch was released at Dubai Watch Week late in the year, and served as a powerful reminder that the minds behind the work at MB&F are as sharp as ever. The HM11 is a return to form, perfectly combining whimsy, architectural design, and technical prowess into one wild package. This is exactly the kind of watch that made us fall in love with the brand in the first place. 

Second is a new PloProf from Omega. After many decades Omega has returned the PloProf to a monobloc case, and refined the dimensions to bring it back to its roots. It’s still weird, chunky, and a bit ridiculous, which is exactly what the PloProf should be, but this new rendition feels a bit closer to the original intention of the watch. Yes, it still has a helium release valve, which is a bit strange, but we’ll explore further when we’re able to get our hands on a production version this year. Here’s hoping for a new generation of the watch built on this same structure.