This year marks the 20th anniversary for the BR-01, Bell & Ross’ now quintessential instrument style square case. This watch would go on to set a foundation for the brand’s growth, and while their path hasn’t always been so clear, the square cased watch has always served as an anchor. The broader BR framework has grown to include a diverse range of designs that incorporate formal(ish) styles as well as those core instrument style references. There’s also an experimental style that Bell & Ross have been able to work into the core collection with a new BR-X3 collection consisting of two new watches rendered in steel and titanium, bringing details from their flagship watches into more accessible territory.
For what it’s worth, you can still find that classic three-hander design in a square case in the BR-03 reminiscent of the watch that set the tone 20 years ago. It can even be had for under $4,000 thanks to the use of a Sellita based movement inside. It might feel like something of a novelty these days, but it still has that wholly original look and feel that’s never really been adequately recaptured in the years since. It’s a modern classic in some ways, and Bell & Ross have done well to preserve it through their journey.
The BR-X3 collection looks to open a new chapter for the brand, incorporating a movement first seen in the more shapely BR-X5. This is a manufacture movement created by Kenissi, and features a 70 hour power reserve, with an indication on the dial, and a date sitting opposite. Both are helpfully labeled to make sure there’s no confusion. Oh, and it’s COSC certified. Bell & Ross use the “developed in-house” language around this movement, which is a bit of put-off considering other brands that work with Kenissi are transparent about it, but it does represent a jump from the Sellita based caliber used down stream. Price wise, at least, as the actual differences between this movement and something like an SW-300 and which might be preferable are certainly up for debate.
If you like the idea of this movement, but could never quite get on board with the BR-X5, these new references will likely be of interest. Some of the brand’s more progressive design elements make appearances here, such as the ‘X’ shape formed from the dial segmentation, but it’s all set into that classic 41mm square case design. There are two variations, one in titanium with a monotone black and grey scheme, and another with a steel case and a sunburst blue dial. Both measure 13.3mm in thickness. This is a 41mm square, meaning there is an effectively small lug to lug distance, but the shape itself, a literal square, can be awkward on some wrists. It’s the kind of watch you’d want to give a try prior to making a commitment as it won’t be for everyone (like many square watches, to be honest).
Pricing for these new watches starts at $7,200 in steel, and rises to $8,300 in black titanium. Both ship on rubber straps. It’s a tall price indeed, but this is a unique watch to be sure, and it represents a new path forward for the future of their instrument style designs and use of the Kenissi caliber. Bell & Ross
