Back in 2023, Blancpain introduced a new facet to their historic Fifty Fathoms collection with the Tech Gombessa. The 47mm watch was a technical powerhouse that sat somewhere between the X Fathoms and the more pedestrian Fifty Fathoms references, but it also served a unique purpose for the technical diving being done with the Gombessa Project, led by biologist Laurent Ballesta. The Tech Gombessa features a highly specific set of features, but the underlying structure of the watch proved quite popular, and this week, we’re getting a regular production variation of the Fifty Fathoms Tech made for a slightly broader audience. Oh, and it uses a new interchangeable strap system.
The Tech Gombessa was an innovative modern dive watch made for the project’s unique needs that would see tech divers using closed circuit rebreather units in order to stay submerged for long periods of time. The Gombessa Expeditions, which are sponsored by Blancpain, “use innovative diving methods to bear witness to the inaccessible mysteries of the underwater world through naturalist photography, scientific protocols and documentaries”. To aid in these expeditions, Blancpain developed the Tech Gombessa with a unique complication which put a fourth hand on the dial that tracked against a three hour bezel, allowing divers the ability to track the duration of their dives at such scales. Further, a new titanium case featured a shapely integrated rubber strap, allowing for a surprisingly form fitting experience for such a large watch.
I’ll be honest, I found a lot to like in the Tech Gombessa when I handled it at launch, and its hyper niche focus within the dive genre only made it more interesting. The idea of a Tech range of the Fifty Fathoms that can bring these ideas to life within regular production references is exactly the shot in the arm the brand needs, provided they can capture the same appeal. With that in mind, I think Blancpain comes close with the new Fifty Fathoms Tech being released today. What it loses in niche complexity, it gains in ergonomic practicality.
The new Fifty Fathoms Tech employs a similar design and structure seen in the Gombessa, but its grade 23 titanium case now measures 45mm in diameter. It’s important to note that there is no lug at all on the case, but rather a thumb that serves as the connection point for the rubber strap, so the watch fits in a much smaller footprint than you might expect at that size. Additionally, the manner in which the strap fits into the case is very ergonomic, curving around the wrist in a very natural manner. This, paired with the relative light weight nature of the case, will make this a very wearable 45mm watch, if ever there was such a thing.
Peering into the dial we find a pitch black base (Blancpain claims it absorbs up to 97% of light hitting it) with blocks of lume acting as the hour markers, shaped as the numerals at the cardinal positions. This creates a high contrast legibility that only heightens in low light situations. Plus, it looks pretty sweet. A set of pencil hands and an orange seconds hand track the time, and there is a date relegated to the 4:30 position. Yes, the ‘Tech’ label remains at six o’clock on the dial, and its high-tech font feels a bit unnatural sitting under the scripted Fifty Fathoms logo directly above it, but it does lend to the overall odd nature of the design, so lets chalk it up to character.
Inside you’ll find Blancpain’s automatic caliber 1315A, which is visible through an exhibition caseback, a detail I think the watch could do without. That said, the movement itself is certainly attractive in a conventional manner. The movement gets an impressive 120 hours of reserve, and even with the open caseback boasts a 300 meter depth rating. The straps, which come in black, white, and orange, can be swapped on the go with the press of a button, and offer a range of personalities.
Okay, so there’s a lot to love here if you ask me, but the biggest sticking point will undoubtedly be the $22,700 price tag. That’s a tough pill to swallow considering the feature set at work. Grade 23 titanium can be found elsewhere, such as the recently announced Laventure Marine Type 3, which is priced under $5k. Further, there’s no real complication draw when it comes to the movement, as nice as it is. I struggle to find the value here, as much as I like the watch itself. Regardless, I’m happy to see Blancpain lean into the Tech arm of their Fifty Fathoms in a regular production manner, and I hope to see it flourish in subsequent generations. Blancpain