Squale is releasing a new Sub platform this week with a 37mm silhouette meant to recall “the original size of serious diving.” Hyperbole aside, this is a tidy representation of the brand’s most distilled take on the genre, bringing a welcome dose of focus to a stable that includes over a dozen collections of divers in the process. Squale celebrated their 65th anniversary in 2024, and while they have a memorable back catalog, and still produce the wonderful Von Büren case in the 1521, this Sub 37 brings a welcome contrast to the table with a more traditional skin diver style case. It’s also a nod to the brand’s prolific early years as a case manufacturer.
Squale was formed just as the recreational dive watch genre was taking off alongside the activity itself, and through the 60s and 70s, the Swiss brand would supply cases to the likes of Blancpain, Doxa, Heuer, and many others. Their most iconic case, which is named for the brand’s founder, Charles von Büren, features an asymmetrical shape with the crown placed at 4 o’clock, directly under a flattened section of the case wall. This was used by Blaincpain for their ‘Bund’ Fifty Fathoms used by German combat divers in the 70s. This design is preserved in the modern 1521 collection, which is available in a wide array of configurations.
In fact, this is one of the few brands that likely doesn’t lean into their history enough. The volume of offerings range in presentation, from preserving older designs to rendering them in vibrant colroways, without any really serving as the heart and soul of the original vision. The result is a somewhat diluted experience. With the Sub 37, which is available in a single configuration, some of that old world charm is brought back into focus.
The Sub 37 is a three hand time only design set within a straight lug steel 37mm case that measures 11mm in thickness. A black dial hosts eggshell colored lume in the circular hour plots and thick hands, with the same color theme carrying over to the fully indexed bezel. The dial is double signed with the curved shark logo appearing at six o’clock, and the original action poster ready Squale at 12 o’clock high. It’s a lot visually, but it’s high on character, and feels pretty old-school as a result.
Inside, Squale is using an elabore grade Sellita SW200 automatic movement, and though the SW300 would be a preferable option, the Sub 37 does land in sub $2,000 territory. The watch gets a 300 meter depth rating and notably uses a 19mm lug span, which feels like a sweet spot for this case diameter. The rubber strap fit to the watch flares out to sit flush with the case, and the large holes lend to the throwback vibes.
It’s a handsome diver, and one that represents a welcome step toward simple and focused designs from the brand without having to resort to things like colorful sunray dials. It’s also a welcome reminder of just how relevant Squale was in the origins of the modern dive watch genre. The Sub 37 is available now priced at $1,750. Squale