Zenith is returning to the Defy Extreme platform this week with the release of two references rendered in titanium with a mix of white and black ceramic.The new watches get the Chroma label, and make use of a myriad of colors within the openworked dial, dialing the drama up to 11 in the process. It’s a theme we saw take hold in the Le Locle brand’s collaborations with the artist Felipe Pantone in the past, and it’s a palette that works well within the confines of the modern Defy Extreme platform, if not for the faint of heart. These are statement watches in every sense of the word, and both will be limited to 100 units.
These are watches that prioritize the experience of the design over things like legibility and practicality. As such, these likely won’t make for great daily wear options, but there is one thing they haven’t compromised on, and that is the ergonomics of a large frame. These are 45mm watches, and both use a highly angular case with an integrated strap, and no real lug structure to speak of, so the effective lug to lug is surprisingly manageable. The use of titanium and ceramic keep the whole thing relatively light weight, and the shape of the strap integration means you certainly could wear it every day in terms of comfort alone.
As dramatic as the case shape and design is, the real star of the show here is the dial, which offers depth, and an array of rainbow colors set at nearly every level. From the hour markers and sub-dials, to the bridge work and even the oscillating weight, vibrant colors are visible at nearly every angle of these things. It’s done in a manner that invites the viewer in for a closer inspection to enjoy the movement, the structure of the dial pieces, and consider each moment on its own. Stepping back, these components all come together in a loud yet somehow graceful manner.
Again, legibility isn’t really a priority here, but you will notice some floating, colorful numerals marking the indexes in each of the sub-dials. There is a chapter ring at the dial’s perimeter that can be used with the high-speed chronograph, capable of tracking down to 1/100th of a second. The movement is the El Primero 21, which features a pair of escapements: one for the regular time keeping beating at 5Hz, and another for the chronograph beating at 50Hz.
Both of these watches are limited to 100 unit production runs, and each make use of Zenith’s wonderful strap change system. You will be restricted to their ecosystem of straps, of course, but these are two examples that should work quite well on a wide range of colors to bring out your favorite accent within the dial. Pricing for both is set at $20,600 with availability at Zenith boutiques. Zenith