Okay, so there is probably no such thing as a ‘perfect’ dive watch, but there are plenty that come pretty close. A good diver has the capacity to be so much more than a literal diving tool, often making great daily wear candidates that can handle a fair share of abuse on land as well as they can at depth. The genre has a well documented history that stretches back (in modern form) to the ‘50s, and enjoys broad representation in the market from nearly every manufacturer and micro-brand out there. This has created a rich landscape of options both old and new for enthusiasts to enjoy.
With that in mind, here is the first in a series examining some options in a given price range, beginning with $3,000. That’s a pretty loose rule but these three watches all find themselves within shouting distance of that number, and it’s my belief that they each bring something unique and intangible to the table. Is there room for all three in a single collection? You bet. But any one of them would also make for a strong single dive watch collection, and offer fantastic daily experience in the process.
The three watches that are kicking this off are the Tudor Pelagos 39, the Omega Seamaster 300 ref 2231.50, and the Sinn U50. There are plenty more in this price range, as well as above and below, which we plan to get to, so be sure to leave your suggestions below or in the video over on YouTube. Here’s a brief overview of each of the watches.
Tudor Pelagos 39
This diver from Tudor is the penultimate daily wear diver, and is the most straightforward of this bunch. This also means it lacks some of the more distinctive personality traits found in the other two, but this is a no-nonsense fully capable tool watch that has a very broad range. The fully titanium case and bracelet paired with the pleasant 39mm diameter make for an exceptional on-wrist experience, while the high contrast dial brings the brutal modern design that we love in the Pelagos.
The P39 is the priciest of this group, with an MSRP of $4,700, but an aftermarket price closer to $3,500. This watch brings a lot to the table at that price point, including Tudor’s in-house Kenisi built MT5400 movement, which is COSC certified.
Sinn U50
Sinn holds a special place in the hearts of many a dive watch fan, and the U1 has long been a modern dive watch legend. The U50 brought the U1 design into a slightly smaller case, at 41mm (measured at the bezel), and it may be one of the most perfect executions of a modern dive watch in recent times. The U50 has a polarizing design with massive blocks for hands, but somehow pulls it off with grace. It’s easy on the eyes and on the wrist, and like the other two watches on this list, seems to go with any strap you dare pair it with.
The 41mm case is constructed from Sinn’s TEGIMENT steel, and I think it’s a design that works best with the steel bezel and the red and black infill to highlight the units. Sinn uses a Sellita SW-300 here, which keeps the thickness in check at 11mm (the thinnest of the group), and makes it easily serviceable into the future. The Sinn U50 can be had well under $3,000 at the moment, and represents one of the most unique options out there.
Omega Seamaster 300 2231.50
This is the elder of this group, hailing from the early ‘00s, and representing the last of the first generation of the modern Seamaster 300. This specific reference differs from most other Seamaster 300 examples in that it uses closed broadsword hands, and features a case and bracelet made of titanium. This pairs beautifully with the thin case, making for the most wearable watch of this trio.
This design also has a high nostalgia factor, and has us yearning for more simple days not only for the Seamaster 300 collection, but also for tool watches in general. This Omega can be had for at or even under $3,000 today, and generally flies under the radar on most occasions. This is a real ‘if you know you know’ kind of dive watch, and as much as we dislike that term, let’s say it’s a great opportunity for introduction.