Tudor is taking the Pelagos back to its roots with a new release today dubbed the Ulta. This is a 1,000 meter titanium diver built in the style of the original Pelagos design, the first such release we’ve seen since the FXD took the collection in a different direction when it was released in 2021. There are some unexpected changes here but on the whole, this is a welcome return to the modern, over-engineered diver that launched in 2012 as a perfect counterpart to the throwback Black Bay. It also gives us a new Tudor moniker to ponder in ‘Ulta’, though here its intention seems clear: this is the most advanced, capable Pelagos ever made.
Tudor captured lighting in a bottle with the Black Bay in 2012, tapping into the burgeoning throwback trend taking hold of the industry. The look captured the original Tudor dive watches, and it’s a formula they’ve since stuck to pretty closely. Alongside the Black Bay, Tudor provided a perfect contrast with the Pelagos which, instead of looking back, looked ahead to lay the foundations for a new generation of divers, focused on performance and ingenuity. In the years since, the Pelagos has proven to be a highly versatile platform for the brand to build on, with releases like the FXD offering new expressions that tapped into the world of cycling and yacht racing. But in the process, that crystal clear sense of purpose was slightly tinted.
With the Pelagos Ultra, Tudor once again shows a laser focus on performance and technology. The original design feels as progressive as ever here, and while Tudor claims the case is a new design, it follows the same codes and lines seen in the OG references. It is scaled up to 43mm, however, and is composed of both grade 2 and grade 5 titanium. So despite the size, it’s actually surprisingly manageable on the wrist. That said, this won’t be a great daily wear option if you’re used to something like a Black Bay 58 or Pelagos 39.
The dial design feels familiar, but there are some changes here. Notably, the rehaut does not incorporate the block hour markers the way it used to. Instead, the dial is flat and lives directly under the crystal to help with legibility. It’s a small thing, but that single quirk had a lot of fans so I suspect this move will leave some disappointed. A light blue Pelagos label lives above the Master Chronometer signage, and ties together an otherwise very straightforward dial.
Inside, Tudor is using their manufacture caliber MT5612-U, which is Master Chronometer certified, as it says on the tin. The date is placed at three o’clock, and there is no consideration for lume replacement at its outer edge, potentially running afoul of ISO standards. On the subject of lume, there are two different colors at work here allowing wearers to quickly differentiate the minute hand and bezel pip at a glance in low light situations.
Finally, there is a new expandable clasp design here with a visible indicator to see how much it’s been extended. This is a T-Fit system built in the same vein as the original clasp of the Pelagos, with a spring loaded mechanism inside.
Tudor’s most capable Pelagos is also its most expensive, at $5,950. I’ll have more thoughts on that once I’m able to spend some quality time with it (and with any luck, get it in the water) so keep an eye out for that. In the meantime, catch more from Tudor.