TAG Heuer struck a chord with a new 39mm ‘Glassbox’ interpretation of the historic Carrera chronograph back in 2023, and it’s an execution that’s proven remarkably versatile in the years since. The brand has brought a range of color configurations and materials to the collection, all of which seem to work well in their own way (the 18k yellow gold case with gold dial being a personal favorite). This week, TAG Heuer is introducing a new deep purple dial into the collection, signaling a broader return to the color that I expect to see more of across the board as we move ahead. This watch kicks off 2025 LVMH Watch Week, and joins nearly two dozen other new TAG Heuer watches. This purple dial stands apart from the other releases, however, and extends a formula that works.
The Carrera has a deep history that extends back to the early ‘60s, with deep connections to the automotive universe built in. Its identity has been pushed and pulled in the successive generations, but the general DNA has proven to be rather fluid and adaptable. The most compelling modern vision of the Carrera has come in the form of the 39mm Glassbox design, which balances its handsome heritage design with a refreshing modernity, allowing the watch to feel original and fresh, while still being familiar and comfortable. It’s also a great platform on the wrist that brings plenty of visual interest thanks to how they’ve handled the dial.
TAG Heuer have created a highly three dimensional dial experience under the domed crystal, pulling the perimeter of the dial up like a wave that crests at the edge of the crystal. The falloff on either side becomes usable as two different surfaces. In this case, the tachymeter sits along the outer edge, as the inner slope accepts the hour markers and chapter ring. This particular reference features a deep purple color that fades to dark at the edges. This is set upon a sunray brushed finish texture that provides a rich character to the dial, and remains unbroken throughout the dual registers at 3 and 9 o’clock.
This new collection is no stranger to interesting color combinations, and this one feels as distinct as the others. Each has their own personalities that range from low-key to full on sporty in nature. This one falls closer to the former. I love the expression of purple here, as it walks a fine line between subtle and gauche. I think this is a color we’ll be seeing more of as we move deeper into the year, as the pendulum swings back to big color applications.
This Carrera remains structurally the same as the first 39mm Glassbox we saw in 2023, and houses the same caliber TH20 that is visible through the caseback. The finish is about what you’d expect at this price range, and there’s plenty of wobble and noise that comes with the rotor, but this watch is priced at $6,650 retail, and the only thing we really think it’s missing at that price is a nice bracelet. TAG Heuer
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