Zenith released the Chronomaster Original in triple calendar configuration in early 2024, tapping into an historic set of complications and bringing to life a prototype design from 1970 that never saw production. Like the standard Chronomaster Original, the design is faithful to the origins of the famous chronograph, needing very little in the way of modern updates to feel perfectly relevant today. In the years since its release, the full calendar Chronomaster Original has proven to be a diverse platform, welcoming a range of colors and materials that all flatter in different ways. Among the most expressive of these features a dial made of lapis lazuli, a brilliant blue aggregate stone aligning thematically with the blue theme of the brand’s 160th anniversary last year.
Using a stone dial on a watch that boasts as many complications as the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar is something of a balancing act. It’s a layer that must stand on its own, while not interfering with the structure and legibility of the layout itself. Here, the dial stone must accept six apertures cut into it, and a host of applied hour markers set atop of it, and yet, through all of that, it manages to bring its own dynamic quality to the overall aesthetic. Zenith walks a fine line with this execution, but the result is quite compelling. But, a watch is more than just its dial, so how does the whole package hold up to daily use? Let’s take a closer look.
History
Most watch enthusiasts will be well aware of the trio of automatic chronographs released in 1969 from Seiko, Zenith, and the conglomerate that created the Caliber 11. Each has their own place in history, and each continues to be honored today by their respective creators in some way shape or form. In the case of Zenith and their El Primero, that story takes a few unexpected twists and turns, with the plans for the movement nearly being lost to time before being saved by one of the brand’s watchmakers, Charles Vermot. Of the automatic chronographs to release in 1969, the El Primero likely enjoys the deepest lore as a result of these tribulations, but that’s not the full picture.
After its release in 1969, which saw the original caliber 3019 PHC used by Zenith, or the Datron HS 360 as used by Movado, Zenith would develop a vast array of innovative designs, from the classic A386 and A384 (designs that live on in Zenith’s modern catalog), to more funky A781. In the early 70s, the plan had been to release an A386 with a full calendar module that would bring the day and the month (and a moonphase) to dial to join the date at 4:30. While a prototype was produced, it’s a watch that never saw production at scale, however the movement would go on to make appearances throughout the coming decade, first seen in the delightful A7817 Espada.
The general dial layout for this particular suite of complications would remain consistent for Zenith, and even saw use in the Chronomaster prior to its reemergence as the Chronomaster Original, taking its design back to its roots. As such, this modern Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar finally brings to fruition a vision that began in the ‘70s, and does it justice as originally intended. As with many great designs, it manages to transcend the era from which it came, appearing perfectly in-line with today’s trends and tastes. With a stone dial, it becomes the best of both worlds.
The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar
When Zenith first released the Triple Calendar version of the Chronomaster original, it was careful to keep the unique dial layout first seen in the original prototype, which differs from the base chronograph in some meaningful ways. The most notable detail are the sub dials, which no longer overlap one another, and are instead given their own space to breathe. It releases some of the tension of a watch like the A386 at the expense of one of its trademark features. When rendered in stone, this detail obviously takes on new significance as it allows the material more surface area where there would otherwise be none.
The beauty of this watch is that, at a glance, it sticks to the formula of the design pretty closely, with those new resized sub-dials being the biggest departure. The day and month information is placed neatly atop the running seconds sub-dial and the second totalizer sub-dial respectively, and while they aren’t exactly legible at a glance, they’re there when you need them without interfering with the rest of the design. I love the straightforward approach to their appearance in seemingly unobtrusive locations, there’s something decidedly old-school about it.
This is a full calendar that incorporates a phases of the moon display nested within the minute totalizer at six o’clock, and while I think this does bring a welcome bit of romance to the dial, I’d be keen to see an execution of this watch without it. Finally, El Primero’s trademark date at 4:30 remains untouched. A set of pencil hands work their way around applied hour markers with perfectly manageable legibility. There’s a lot going on here, but it’s all presented intuitively, and without fuss.
The Case
There’s no question that the dial is the real draw here, and that’s before we even get to the stone itself. Every variation of this watch has its own charm and personality, and they all just work. The case is a slightly different story, however. Like the chronograph, it measures 38mm in diameter, and with the extra complications it now measures 14mm in thickness, including a domed crystal. Nothing too egregious, but concerns do surface when considering how it goes about handling the design of the lug in profile.
From the top down, there’s a classic tapered lug with a radially brushed surface. Visually, it looks great. However, the depth of the lug seems to remain the same as it is in the regular chronograph references, which leaves a larger proportion of the total thickness tucked in underneath that ‘belt’ line, if you will, defined by the bottom of the lug. As a result, it sits quite high off the wrist in a way that can feel (and look, if I’m being honest) awkward.
The design of the lug itself is wonderful, but the manner in which they are worked into the design proportionally could use some refinement. Overall, it’s still a perfectly wearable watch, but when you catch a glimpse of it on your wrist at an angle you’ll notice it propped up quite high. Not a deal breaker, but something to be aware of. The rest of the case is perfectly suitable, and you’ll find press buttons along the nine o’clock side wall that allow for quick adjustment of the day and the moonphase. These are best managed with a toothpick in my experience.
One final note about the case, and this is a thought I often have handling Zenith watches. There is a disconcerting ‘lightness’ to the watch as a whole when handling. Not quite plasticy, but not as hefty as I’d like. It’s a difficult sensation to describe, but some watches feel like tanks in their build quality, and others have a more delicate vibe, and this Zenith definitely falls into that category. It’s not there with vintage and neo-vintage references, but it is with these modern creations. My solution? This watch should have a white gold case (though pink gold would also look amazing with this dial).
The Movement
Zenith is using their El Primero 3610 automatic high-frequency chronograph movement that can time down to 1 tenth of a second. Starting up the chronograph will send the timing seconds hand flaying around the dial at 5Hz, making a full loop each ten seconds, totalizing each second (and eventual minutes) along the way. It’s just as satisfying as it is on the regular chronograph version of this watch, and is a feature that has made the El Primero unique since its introduction.
The movement uses a column wheel and the presses are firm but satisfying. Oddly, they don’t feel quite as well tuned as my old Rainbow Flyback, but maybe this just needs a few decades of use under its belt. The movement is visible through an exhibition back, and while there are plenty of layers to peer into, it’s not a view to write home about. The finishing is pretty standard fair, and at this watch’s base price of $14,500, it meets expectations, but only just. This particular variation is a different price, however, so it shifts that equation a bit, but more on that later.
I say this a lot about watches with movements like this, but I think a closed caseback would be more compelling here, especially if it allowed for a more ergonomic case shape overall. It’s not an ugly movement, but it’s certainly not awe inspiring to the level that I’d find myself taking the watch off to admire. But maybe that’s just me.
Lapis Lazuli
Okay, the standout feature of this watch that sets it apart from every other Chronomaster Original, Triple Calendar or otherwise, is the use of a lapis lazuli stone dial. If you like the color blue, you’ll love this dial, full stop. It is beautiful, and dynamic as it is vibrant. The stone appears to be set atop a base layer, giving some depth to the experience as a whole, which is accentuated by the cut outs for the day and month apertures, as well as the hour appliques which stand tall.
The stone itself will be slightly different for each watch produced, and some will have inclusions in different areas. Of this particular example there is a concentration of speckles between the 10 and 11 o’clock hour markers. It’s a reminder of the organic, unique nature of the material, and these inconsistencies are a big part of the draw with a dial like this.
In fact, this works so well that I’d hope to see additional stones added to the collection in time. Another thing to keep in mind are the precise cuts needed to make the stone work atop these complications, which again requires six different openings. This complexity may be a part of the reason that this watch is priced the way that it is, which at $23,600, is a serious premium over the standard references, which start at $14,500.
Final Thoughts
Zenith has created a beautiful watch in the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar with lapis dial. The stone dial adds another dimension to the already intricate design, and unsparingly it holds up. Stone dials are becoming a common sight, particularly in the small brand space, where we can find examples under $1,000, and I always love seeing them used in inventive ways. Here, Zenith has used it to reveal a new wrinkle of the decades old Chronomaster design.
At $14,500, the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar is a compelling package, using an iconic in-house movement with an added set of practical complications. At $23,600, that’s a different proposition, and I’m not sure the use of lapis is enough to overcome that premium, as brilliant as it is. This is a great watch, and if you’re in the market for a watch with this feature set, I’d recommend prioritizing the non-stone dial variations of this watch for a better value proposition.
Overall, this is a well executed, fun watch to experience. The dial is stunning, and the high-frequency chronograph is engaging, while the calendar brings a welcome bit of practicality wrapped in old-world design. It’s a charming watch with a story to tell, and if you can get past the price, a worthy celebration of Zenith’s 160 year history. Zenith