One of the defining features of the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 is its black DLC coating, a detail meant to push all focus to the instrumentation within the dial. That doesn’t mean Porsche Design never experimented with the platform, however. We saw many interesting variations of the watch over the years it was produced, from deep sage green, to even raw uncoated cases and bracelets. The design is remarkably versatile, it would seem, and unsurprisingly, the modern recreation of the design from Porsche Design shares the same quality. The modern Chronograph 1 has seen a range of special editions, and this week we’re getting a new one that recalls an uncoated stainless steel reference released in 1975.
This is the new Chronograph 1 1975 Limited Edition. Like the reference released in 1975, this watch uses a raw, uncoated case and bracelet, only this time, its base metal is titanium. A uniform, bead blessed finish is applied to the case and bracelet, which serves nearly the same purpose as the black coating by pushing the focal point to the dial, and has the added benefit of bringing more of the case lines to life. The total effect is a less aggressive design overall, and one that heavily alters the personality of the watch without compromising the core DNA that makes it so great in the first place.
The dial itself remains unchanged, with a black base hosting pure white markers and hands for maximum contrast. The 7750-esque layout also remains, with a trio of sub-dials at 12, nine, and six o’clock, and day and date apertures taking residence at three o’clock. That said, the movement is a Porsche Design caliber WERK 01.240 manufactured by Concepto, and as you might imagine, it shares many qualities with the ubiquitous Valjoux chronograph movement. It’s a cam-actuated chronograph, so actually using it won’t feel quite as refined as you might like from a watch at this budget, but there’s nothing fundamentally wrong with the layout.
The movement also inherits the 7750’s dimensions, which means the Chronograph 1 gets the same tanky proportions as the original examples, at 40mm in diameter, and a hair over 14mm in thickness. The design of the case handles it well, however, and it all feels like a natural part of the package. Most importantly, it wears comfortably enough to not feel like a nuisance. A big part of that can also be attributed to the bracelet, which integrates to the case under a hooded lug, and in the modern versions, this uses a proprietary quick release system, so other straps can be fitted with the right end links.
Above all, this is a timeless design brought back to life with a great deal of respect given to the original. The raw presence of this reference adds a new layer of depth to the personality, and presents the brilliance of the design to be appreciated in a new way. The $9,650 price tag is steep, but with just 350 examples planned for production, remains inline with the modern Chronograph 1 collection as a whole. Porsche Design