The independent watch brand scene got a little bigger this week with the formal introduction of US based brand, Fleming. The brand is a passion project from Thomas Fleming and James Kong (aka @waitlisted), and they’ve come out of the gates swinging with their Series 1 Launch Edition and spokesperson Norwegian professional tennis player, Casper Ruud. The Series 1 watches are the culmination of a three year effort to bring this vision to life, and hooked into some of the industries brightest along the way. The results speak for themselves, and this is one of the most mature watches on launch I’ve come across in recent memory.
The Series 1 is being launched in three metals: rose gold, platinum, and tantalum. The watches are limited in production and individually numbered, and each presents a distinct personality thanks to their stunning dials. The rose gold and platinum cases both get hand guilloche dials (though the results are quite unique), while the tantalum receives a frosted platinum dial with dark blue aventurine details. While the layout remains consistent, their use of different textures and color schemes pushes the different variations into very different directions, each captivating in their own way.
All three cases measure 38.5mm in diameter and 46.5mm from lug to lug. Total thickness is a mere 9mm, which includes a domed crystal (the case itself is 8mm in height). The classic proportions underscore a heightened formality that’s reinforced by the attention to detail within its architecture. The three-piece midcase and lug design invites a closer look to discover some of the interesting angles and recesses that have been achieved by manufacturer Efteor, who make some of the best cases in the game for the likes of Greubel Forsey and A Lange & Söhne. In person, the case is quite captivating, and most importantly, wears exceptionally well. These are formal watches, but they could easily see daily use thanks to their well considered proportions.
The tantalum case will see the highest production volume, with 25 examples planned for production. This is the most austere of the trio, and will fly under the radar a bit easier as a result. Gray frosted platinum hosts the applied hour markers, framed by brushed chapter rings for the dial and sub dial. At the center is a rich dark blue aventurine material with a sparkle that demands a loupe to fully appreciate.
The platinum case will be limited to 9 examples produced, and this configuration presents what I suspect will be the most polarizing of the dials. This case gets a southwestern brown and amber hand guilloché that will fall into love it or hate territory for most, but there’s no denying the impact of the guilloché here. The textures achieved are organic and lifelike in nature, with a special treatment within the sub dial at 6 o’clock, which gets a ‘tornado’ like twist that recalls the brand’s iconography.
The rose gold case will be limited to just 7 examples, and gets what I find to be the most interesting dial texture. Light champagne hand hammering is flanked by carbon gray hand guilloché, while the chapter rings surrounding the dial and sub dial are rendered in a rich rose gold color that matches the rose gold case. The texture achieved at the center of the dial is decadent, and makes this arguably the most visually compelling execution of the bunch.
The stunning dial work represented here is done by Comblemine, run by Christophe Beuchet and Kari Voutilainen outside of Fleurier. They have created dials for the likes of Ming, Czapek, Fiona Krüger, and many others.
Inside, Fleming is using the caliber FM-01 created for them by the team at Chronode, run by watchmaker Jean-François Mojon. The movement features a mixture of textures and techniques, resulting in a visually arresting view through the back, dominated by the skeletonization of the mainspring barrels (providing 7 days of reserve) that reveals the Fleming icon, and the full balance bridge with two polished arms holding the balance. The finishing choices around the plates is classic and timeless, while the shapes and orientation at work feel modern and contemporary. A power reserve indication has also been incorporated opposite the balance.
I appreciate the fact that Fleming is open in celebrating their production partners with this watch, and in doing so give the project instant credibility thanks to the names involved. Many brands can get a bit too cagey with this type of thing, so it’s refreshing to see it acknowledged openly here. It’s a wise choice as well, given the name Fleming on the dial doesn’t connect to any watchmaking bona fides that I’m aware of. That name itself could be a sticking point for some, but the overall goals of the project and the kinds of people they’ve brought together to achieve this end result speaks volumes.
The Series 1 in rose gold is priced at 48.500CHF; in platinum at 51,500CH; and in tantalum at 45,500CHF. For more details on these new watches, visit the Fleming website.