Seiko’s historic Speedtimer collection is receiving new references this week, which include a trio of Datsun themed LEs alongside three regular production references. The watches capture Seiko’s classic chronograph design language, and the two time and date examples, the SPB513 and SPB515 take it a step further by resurrecting a very specific look and feel, and they’ve done it in a manner that not only respects the original design language, but also modern ergonomics. These are the Speedtimer watches I’ve been waiting for, and while they may not capture the complication fully, they hit all the right notes.
Seiko has a rich history when it comes to mechanical timers, and their work in the late ‘60s and early ‘70s is up there with the very best. 1969 of course saw the release of the 6139, one of three automatic chronographs released that year marking a historic moment for the complication. Like Zenith and the Heuer group, Seiko’s chronograph also became quite prolific in its evolution, and can be found in an array of designs through the following decade. Today, Seiko hasn’t really found a formula that works in terms of honoring this history, but with these new references, they get a step closer.
As much as I love Datsun, particularly the 240Z rally car, it’s the regular production references SPB513 & SPB515 that have caught my eye here. Frankly, a brand logo on the dial isn’t terribly compelling. The two time and date watches bring a wonderful design back to life brilliantly, and while a centrally mounted chronograph timing hand would have been ideal, this is about the next best thing. An internal rotating bezel and fine gran chapter ring will suffice just fine for 60 second timing in a pinch just as well.
Seiko is using their caliber 6R55 with these two watches, which sits within a 39.5mm steel case that measures a respectable 12mm in total thickness. These watches should wear quite nicely, and the short, well defined lug should also play a big role there. What I really love here is the dial design, which is simple, yet highly detailed in just the right areas. There’s plenty of contrast between the layers at the perimeter, and nothing else to district from that simple purpose. The window sits at 4:30 in a circular aperture with a disc that’s been color matched to the dial.
This is a confident design that has been executed wonderfully, with Seiko resisting any temptation to gussy it up needlessly. The blocky hour markers and thick hands feel like a natural evolution of the design, which originated in the ‘70s. A simple hit of orange at the tip of the seconds hand, as well as the final 15 minutes of the count-down bezel are a perfect addition to bring the rest of the design to life. This is exactly the kind of sport watch I’ve been waiting for from Seiko, as the oversized three register chronograph Speedtimers just don’t tap into the same level of charm.
The Seiko reference SPB513 (white) & SPB515 (black) will be available this September, and will be priced at $995 on a steel bracelet. Seiko