In 2019, Vacheron Consntantin revealed a special Dual Time Overseas execution made specially for photographer and explorer Cory Richards to use during an ascent attempt of Mount Everest. The summit attempt, which utilized a new route, may have failed, but the watch would go on to form something of its own legend. In response to the community’s request for a commercial variation of the watch, in 2021 Vacheron released a similar variation of the watch along with a chronograph done in the same style, complete with titanium case and matte grey dials. This year, Vacheron Constantin is expanding the collection of titanium Dual Time references further with four new dials.
The Overseas Dual Time is a design that was introduced in 2018, and has generally been handled in a similar manner to the rest of the Overseas collection with steel and precious metal options, with vibrant dials and finishes on full display. When the titanium expression of the watch was shown in 2019, it completely changed the personality of the design, transforming it from luxury ‘sport’ watch to sport ‘luxury’ watch in an instant. It also put the brand firmly onto the radar of many enthusiasts for the first time.
For a certain type of enthusiast, there are well known, historic brands that paint the backdrop of the hobby. They generally aren’t front of mind, and while their watches garner respect, they may not elicit any kind of emotional reaction. Vacheron Constantin is that kind of brand. Arguably brilliant watches, a rich history, and technical mastery – but a seemingly walled off world to the average enthusiast. The Dual Time done for Cory Richards changed that.
With this expansion to the collection, Vacheron Constantin is embracing that facet of the design as more than a one-off idea. That involvement with Richards and his exploits gives the Dual Time a very different complexion, and will undoubtedly deepen the already robust foundation of the Overseas name.
The new Overseas Dual Time watches are all offered in 41mm titanium cases, and each gets a different color matte dial so named for the cardinal directions found on a compass: south is grey; north is white; east is blue; and west is forest green. All of the dials continue to use orange accents at the 24 hour hand, as well as the AM/PM indication. Each also ships with a color matching strap along with the integrated bracelet, which can be swapped out on the fly.
The dial layout remains the most unique feature of this dial, with a sub-dial containing the date at six o’clock, and a rather unusual AM/PM indication that uses a pointer. It feels entirely unnecessary, and I love that Vacheron dedicated as much thought and eventual real estate to this expression of the compilation where most brands simply use an aperture with a color changing disc underneath.
Vacheron continues to use their own caliber 5110 DT/3 within this Dual Time collection, which provides the second time zone, and a pusher under the crown to make quick adjustments to local time. The movement is visible through the caseback, and the total thickness of the watch is just under 12mm. This isn’t a small watch, but it wears flat on the wrist with an easily manageable total length.
There’s a lot to love about these four new references, and each features the typical level of fit and finish you’d expect from a brand like Vacheron Constantin. The result also means an eye watering $41,000 price tag. This does stand out as a unique watch in its class, however, and I applaud Vacheron for committing to this execution complete with titanium case. Hopefully production won’t be restricted, and owners will feel compelled to put them to some form of interesting use. Vacheron Constantin
