Jaegler-LeCultre’s Master Control family is gaining a new collection this week in the form of an integrated bracelet design across three distinct models collectively labeled the Master Control Chronometre. With the new collection also comes a new caliber 738 powering the Date Power Reserve model, and all three movements at use feature an HPG (High Precision Guarantee) seal (also new). The design captures some classic JLC notes that will look familiar within a novel architecture for the brand. The integrated bracelet trend isn’t behind us just yet, and with releases like this, I’m not sure it ever needs to be.
A good integrated bracelet will always be just that: good. Jaeger-LeCoultre has taken their own unique approach to the design with this bracelet and the manner in which it integrates with the case, keeping things nice and tidy in the process. The three link width gets an offset peak at the center to break up the design, bringing tension when viewed individually, but harmony when taken as a whole. The construction also creates a continuous articulation that pays dividends on the wrist. The end link that connects to the case does so just outside of the bezel itself, leaving no real dead space to speak of.
Many integrated bracelet designs have their own feel on the wrist, and Jaeger-LeCoultre prioritized efficiency with the dimensions of all three of these watches. From the time and date reference, all the way to perpetual calendar, none measure more than 40mm in diameter, and all are under 10mm in thickness.
The collection begins with the 38mm Master Control Chronometre Date offered in both steel ($14,200) and pink gold ($52,500). This watch measures just 8.4mm thick thanks to the automatic manufacture caliber 899, which gets an impressive 70 hours of reserve and COSC certification. The design is sparse yet intricate, with a fine sunray dial and applied numerals at the cardinal positions. Each of the watches walk a fine line between formal and sporty, and that’s most evident with this design.
Next is the 39mm Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve, which is only available in steel ($17,000). This watch uses the brand’s automatic caliber 738, which also gets 70 hours of reserve and COSC certification. This one measures 9.2mm in thickness. The design of this watch was inspired by the Futurematic of 1951, and if you’re not familiar with the Futurematic collection you’re in for a treat. Knowing that inspiration, I wish Jaeger-LeCoultre would have taken even more inspiration from some of those old designs, such as the porthole arrow, and retro-futuristic branding.
Finally, the range topping Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar, which is offered in both steel ($45,700) and pink gold (price upon request). This watch uses the brand’s ultra-thin perpetual calendar caliber 868, and measures 39mm in diameter, and 9.2mm in thickness. The calendar functions are all synchronized here and can be adjusted through a single corrector for ease of use. But it also gets 70 hours of reserve and COSC certification so it is ‘weekend-proof’ as they say.
Each of these designs works remarkably well and, in relation to other new releases with similar feature sets, offer a reasonably good value. These watches sit very close to the IWC Ingenieur in form, though are slightly more formal in nature. And their pricing isn’t that far apart. The 40mm time and date Ingenieur in steel is priced at $12,900 ($1,300 delta), while the new titanium perpetual calendar is priced at $44,000 ($1,700 delta), both within shouting distance of these offerings from JLC, who offer a far more compelling total package (far thinner integrated movements, COSC certification, highly intricate bracelet design, etc.).
Jaeger-LeCoultre seems to have tapped into something special with this collection, creating a truly unique package that takes advantage of their legendary movement pedigree. This is the kind of watch I’ve been waiting for from JLC for a very long time, and I’m excited to see how this collection might evolve and grow. Jaeger-LeCoultre
