TAG Heuer surprises precisely no one with the release of a full Formula 1 collection recalling the original 1986 design. This comes after taking the official timekeeper role of Formula 1 racing, and a limited edition KITH remake of the original last year. This collection felt inevitable. After going hands-on with the watches this week in Geneva, it’s clear that the brand put a lot of thought into getting it right, and I think that’s exactly what they’ve done. This is not a ‘regular’ version of the KITH edition released last year, this is a full re-think of the platform dripping in nostalgia, and I think there will be only one sticking point: the price. But there’s more to it than that.
The original TAG Heuer F1 watch was launched to leverage the brand’s involvement in the sport after officially becoming TAG Heuer (when Heuer was acquired by Techniques d’Avant Garde), and to appeal to a younger audience with bold, colorful designs at accessible price points. The result has become something of a cult classic for their huge personality that is distinctly of its era (in a good way). As trends have come back to the ‘80s and ‘90s, the F1 watch has become more relevant than ever, and TAG Heuer is perfectly positioned to capitalize on it.
The F1 collection does exactly that, though in a slightly more modern and refined package. The case has grown from 35mm to 38mm, but retains the hooded lug design, so it still wears small, but the size feels more appropriate for the design. It wears wonderfully, and the small details, such as the bezel action, feel more elevated than I was expecting. That said, there’s still plenty of levity here, and it doesn’t wander into precious territory. It’s a good balance all around.
Each of the color schemes work well, recalling the palettes used in the ‘80s. They’re bold, and concise. Of the nine references being introduced, just three will make it to regular production: a white dial with red accents in a black bezel that can be had in steel or red synthetic, as well as a blue dial with black bezel set in a steel case. If you want the big colors or crazy combos, you’ll have to spring for one of the limited editions, which could prove difficult, unfortunately.
The most compelling colorway was also the one missing from the lineup in my meeting, but they did have a vintage example, which highlights the differences and similarities between the new and the old. The red case with a green bezel and white dial is eye-catching, and it’s the one that evokes the biggest sense of nostalgia for me personally. I also feel that, when it comes to watches of this nature, it’s best to lean fully into it. That said, the white dial with accents and a black bezel would easily be worn frequently.
These watches are priced between $1,800 and $1,900, which is relatively steel considering the original goals. One thing worth understanding here is that these use TAG’s Solargraph movement, which, in the Aquaracer collection, commands north of $3,000. The movement has a 15 year battery, and charges quite quickly. Whether this movement was the right decision or not remains to be seen, but it’s clear the intent here was to elevate the collection with the brand’s modern tech in a way that fit with the general theme. I do think a price point between $800 and $1,200 would have been ideal with these, but as it sits, I certainly understand the price as is.
Overall, I think this is a great effort from TAG that shows a clear respect for the original. They may have overshot with this movement, but they likely won’t have any trouble selling them. We are at the beginning of this Formula 1 season, and I’d also expect to see more special editions released inline with the season. TAG Heuer