The Octo Finissimo has been a revelation for Bulgari since it was first introduced in 2012 under the stewardship of Guido Terreni, who is now looking to capture lightning twice at Parmigiani Fleurier. The collection has proven to be an unashamedly modern force through a period of throwbacks and re-issues. The Octo has also proven adept at taking to some of the more conceptual ideas thrown at it, such as the Tadao Ando limited editions, and the 10th anniversary “Sketch” concept references released in 2022. This year, Bulgari is returning to the idea of a Sketch dial that goes a bit deeper.
The initial Sketch dial Octo Finissimo released in 2022 in celebration of the collection’s 10th anniversary challenged our expectations of a dial presentation and execution. These dials served as a canvas to host the conceptual ideas of the design in sketch form, quite literally. Both the time only and chronograph GMT dials were rendered in what looked like black charcoal over a gray surface, as if free-handed on the fly. The result is almost as shocking as it is interesting, and seems to perfectly suit the rigid geometric structures of the rest of the watch.
Bulgari is returning to this concept with a new pair of watches, though rather than a sketch revealing the hour markers and sub dials, they go a bit deeper to reveal the structure of the movement underneath. In fact, there are no hour markers or indexes to speak of on the dial side, but instead you are presented with a mirror of what you’d see when turning the watch over: a view of Bulgari’s ultra thin caliber BVL 138.
Bulgari is using the same base watches for this new sketch concept, which means a time only reference, and a yet-to-be unveiled Chronograph GMT. The time only watch will be available in both gold and steel with a corresponding dial color to match. The dial presents the movement as you might see it in a pre-production planning phase, with each part labeled and identified, from the finishing techniques (Côtes de Genève) to the placement of the 31 jewels. Turning the watch over you’re met with, quite literally, the same view of the real thing.
The view is mirrored, however, meaning the hands don’t correspond with the design you’re seeing rendered underneath them. The balance wheel, for instance, is depicted underneath the running seconds hand, while in reality it sits under the opposite side of the dial. It’s the same story with the micro-rotor appearing where you might expect to get a peak at the keyless works. The dial is, therefore, not meant to be a window into the watch, which would have made it perhaps the most conceptually compelling skeleton watch of all time, but more of a way to see both sides of the watch at the same time.
While I find the initial pair of Sketch watches more interesting because of this, I’m happy to see Bulgari continuing to explore the concept in interesting ways. I do think that the Chronograph GMT variation has the opportunity to drive the vibe home with this treatment a bit more effectively, so stay tuned for more on that one soon.
The time only automatic version will be limited to 280 pieces, and priced from €17,800, while the rose gold case will see 70 examples produced and priced from €51,000. Bulgari