The Ulysse Nardin Freak is experiencing something of a resurgence, with a new vision of the famously innovative design flourishing in both the highest echelons, and now at the entry level. This week, we’re getting a new generation of the Freak X, a watch that translates the Freak DNA into an all around more wearable platform that can hold up in daily wear. With the newest Freak X, that formula has been refined further still resulting in a smaller case, more exotic materials, more approachable dial colors, and even a bracelet. The overall design remains familiar, but under the hood you’ll find some big changes.
The original Freak X offered a simplified version of the Freak architecture, relying on the brand’s more traditional caliber UN-230, which employs the use of a crown and keeps the going train under the dial plate where you’d typically find it. Much of the escapement is on display within the counterweight of the minute hand, wandering the dial throughout the hour. With the new Freak X, Ulysse Nardin is introducing a new micro-rotor movement in the caliber UN-232, which provides a more robust platform and incorporates more of the brand’s exotic materials.
For the first time, the Freak X is now using a DIAMonSIL escapement, which is a surface treatment that acts as a shield of sorts, increasing the hardness and resistance to the mechanical stresses which it is subject to. Further, the silicon balance wheel and silicon hairspring crafted at SIGATEC showcase Ulysse Nardin’s ability to wield silicon, as the brand was one of the earliest to do so.
Just as importantly, the new caliber is more compact in nature, and allows for a smaller 41mm case, down from the 43mm case of the original. The lug to lug now sits at 47.3mm, and the total thickness, which includes a box sapphire crystal, is 13.6mm. Personally, I found the original Freak X to be quite wearable thanks to the shape of the case and lug, so this new generation should be all the more pleasant on the wrist. The only downside is that the case is now steel instead of titanium or carbon (though I’d imagine those will come in time), but the reduced size should more than make up for that shift.
The new Freak X collection is launching with a trio of dials and two different cases, two in steel and one in rose gold. The steel references boast a tone on tone silver dial along with a vibrant blue with a satin sunburst texture. The rose gold example gets a black dial with rose gold accents. The new watches also get an interchangeable strap system, with eight unique straps on offer, as well as a steel bracelet, so there’s plenty of opportunity for personalization right out of the gate.
Pricing is set at $41,200, which is about inline with some editions of the Freak X we’ve seen in the past. The real story will be how this one evolves, but there’s no question that UN have created a more compelling base platform to build from. Ulysse Nardin
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