At their core, dive watches are simple, straightforward tools whose usefulness is directly linked to the success of their design. In an age where their literal use as diving instruments has been reduced to novelty status, the qualities that define what a good one looks like have widened considerably and, at times, aren’t even connected to that supremely practical foundation. This has led to a genre that is today full of diversity, and perhaps somewhat ironically, a genre that is more popular than ever. Brands known for their contributions to the history of diving have been forced to either dig in with their traditional and recognizable designs, or pivot to more innovative designs, even if it does mean abandoning the principals of what put these watches on the map.
Ulysse Nardin is a brand that falls into that later category. The brand’s history with waterproof instruments dates back to the 19th century, and they were a part of the modern recreational dive watch game by the early ‘60s. What began with relatively generic design evolved into something else entirely, and by the ‘90s we see a brand marching to the beat of its own drum, for better or worse. Whatever your thoughts on the aesthetic, this was a brand that embraced mechanical innovation. The emblematic Freak was released in 2001, but they also produced deep divers, with 1,000 meter depth ratings and synthetic straps that incorporated steel links, all with their own movement designs.
Admittedly, not all of these design choices have aged well, but like the Thierry Nataf era of Zenith, they pushed forward with novel designs and concepts. Today, the brand finds themselves still rooted in their own unique design DNA, though there has certainly been some maturation that has equipped the brand to better connect with a modern audience of enthusiasts. Their collection of divers does incorporate some relatively classic looking designs, but they use this collection, which is referred to as their ‘sustainable sports watch’ to showcase modern innovations, including a recent release called the Diver [AIR], which enjoys the title of world’s lightest mechanical dive watch. According to Ulysse Nardin, at least.
If you ask me, the Diver [AIR] can be called a dive watch at all by only the loosest definition of the word. It’s got a rotating bezel, and a 200m depth rating. Outside of that, there is nothing about this watch that taps into the core drops of the genre. Perhaps that’s a good thing, as it rather directly challenges our conceptions of what a dive watch is, but it also doesn’t really feel like a watch that can be pigeonholed into a pre-set definition. Weighing in at 52 grams, the [AIR] is certainly a lightweight, but there are lighter mechanical watches out there with a similar depth rating, such as Omega’s titanium Aqua Terra (55 grams and 150 meters), or the Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic (49 grams and 100 meters). The literal dive watch label seems to be all that separates the UN from these other examples.
Stepping back, being ultra lightweight isn’t really a necessity for a dive watch. And I say all of this to simply point out that the [AIR] is worth celebrating not for its achievements in the world of dive watches, but for what it is on its own. This is not a watch I’d want to dive in, as the open dial makes legibility a nightmare, but as anything else I think there’s something very interesting going on here. The use of lightweight, often recycled materials (titanium, carbon fiber, and nylon) is laudable, and the bespoke caliber UN-374 even uses upcycled silicon in the escapement. There’s plenty of interesting details to discover, and the very least of which have anything to do with dive watch features.
The world’s lightest mechanical dive watch is a label that won’t exactly win you much street cred, and the Diver [AIR] as a whole shouldn’t be reduced to just that. In reality, this is an innovative bit of horology packaged in an ultra lightweight sport watch package. It points out the ridiculous confines we often like to stay within when it comes to a genre like divers (and I love dive watches), and rightfully takes independence from the relatively stiff confines that generally define them.
Oh, and let’s not forget its best feature: a fabric hook and loop style strap.
The Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] is a 44mm watch with a $38,000 price tag. It’s not a great dive watch, but it is a great Ulysse Nardin.
Leave a Reply