MB&F are the original collaborative brand (Friends is right in the name), and this week, we’re seeing their latest efforts with a slightly unexpected partner: Bulgari. This is the second time working with Bulgari, having released the Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra in 2021, and this time, the collaboration takes the Horological Machine route to create an alternate version of the famous Bulgari Serpenti. The new watch looks to pick things up with a similar structure to the HM10, but things quickly take a turn toward reptilian vibes with a bit of automotive inspiration for good measure.
In truth, my favorite Horological Machines are ones that leave room for a bit of ambiguity, and allow the wearer to find their own meaning and interpretations. Their latest HM11 is a great example of exactly this. The original HM10, which was labeled (quite literally) the Bulldog, always felt a bit too direct. In person and on wrist the watch is wonderful, and had they left the design inspiration a bit more open ended, I may have never made the canine connection. With the Serpenti, there seems to be a nice balance happening, leading to a more open-ended stance on, what are in reality, quite specific sources of inspiration.
The Serpenti is dynamic, offering interesting views at literally every angle. It is an interesting design on its own, and while you might pick up the snake themes or even the automotive themes, they never really outweigh the manner in which the design comes together as a whole. It’s futuristic at some angles, animalistic in others, but the case, movement, and display really jive well together as its own thing.
The Serpenti made its debut in 1948, and has served as a consistently evolving mixture of Bulgari’s jewelry prowess and horological ambitions. The platform has taken many forms over the years, but never quite like this. That’s because, at least when I think of the Serpenti, the core feature is the coiled bracelet. This form is what makes it iconic. Unfortunately, that’s one feature that’s absent from this collaboration, instead focusing solely on the horological part. To be charitable, the production and design of the bracelet is uniquely Bulgari, so perhaps it’s better preserved for their stand alone collection.
The Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti is being offered in three different configurations, each limited to 33 pieces: a grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes, an 18K rose gold case with green eyes, and a black PVD-coated stainless steel case with red eyes. As usual, the case is highly complex with plenty openings for shaped sapphire pieces to allow for plenty of views to the inside. The time is displayed via two rotating domes (ala HM3) with an oversized balance wheel hovering in the space between. The back side gets a ‘louvered’ piece of sapphire that exposes two engine-cover-esque bridges, lending to the automotive vibes.
Flipping the watch over reveals an unhindered view at the bottom of the movement, which is quite interesting given the unique structure that’s been developed for the watch. This is a departure from the standard HM10, which was pinched closed at the back half on both the top and bottom.
Overall this is a welcome addition to the range of Horological Machines, and the collaboration with Bulgari brings a unique, refined flavor to the result. It might not feel exactly like a Serpenti, but it does capture something special, and this is exactly the kind of conceptual project I’d love to see more of from both brands.
The steel and titanium variations of the Serpenti are priced from $148,000, while the 18K gold variation is priced from $170,000. MB&F
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