Among the stated goals of Christopher Ward is making high-end watchmaking accessible to all. The brand’s most notable efforts in this realm have come in the form of the C1 Bel Canto, a chiming watch with the mechanism visible on the dial side that shook the watchmaking world when it was released in 2022 for a price under $4k. The English brand is following up with a new concept built within their existing Twelve collection, making use of their SH21 movement, which was developed 10 years ago after merging with Synergies Horlogères. The new watch is called the Twelve X, and it places an openworked SH21 movement within a full titanium Twelve case and bracelet. This isn’t necessarily a new concept, even in this price range, but Christopher Ward is hoping to bring high-end finishing to all with the help of “high quality CNC machines”.
That last sentence may sound counterintuitive, but in reality, many brands known for their finishing are using CNC machines somewhere along the line, even when it comes to achieving a certain finish. Truly hand-made watches are quite rare, and rest assured you will pay for it with examples including the Greubel Forsey Hand Made collection, and watches from the likes of Dornbluth and Sohn, Craig Struthers, and Haldimann. Much of the by-hand work in high-end movements is done in the form of the end finishing on the parts that have been cut via CNC machines. At times, these machines can even help in achieving those finishes, giving a hand-finished look in the end result.
Christopher Ward have opened up their SH21 movement, offering a view inside and between the bridges at the gearing and pair of mainsprings within. The bridge pieces have been deliberately made about a millimeter too tall, so that they can be worked down to the right size while incorporating the desired finish. On that note, the dark bridges get a grained finish on their surface to create more contrast at their edges, which get a polished bevel. This is all accomplished with those high quality CNC machines, of which Christopher Ward’s Head of Product, Jörg Bader says “…get it right, and the results will almost match the most perfect hand polishing.”
That claim is difficult to judge based on pictures alone, but what can be seen is certainly impressive at this price point. Further, what I appreciate the most about this watch and Christopher Ward in general, is their transparency when it comes to discussing exactly how they achieve their goals with such things. They are open about their partners and about their production methods, which is generally seen as taboo within the industry writ large. The truth is, there are plenty of brands much higher up the food chain that use similar methods that are far less forthcoming in discussing it.
The titanium case measures 41mm in diameter and 12.3mm in thickness. The integrated bracelet means the length is 46.3mm and that this watch will wear a bit smaller than the diameter suggests. The Twelve is a very comfortable watch in my experience with the regular variations, and I suspect that this iteration will work just as well in practice. My only real concern is the eligibility of the hands over the opened dial.
The end result here is a striking variation of the Twelve that feels just as much about sending a message as it is about the watch itself. Will it be on par with a Greubel Forsey or Roger Smith? No. And it doesn’t need to be. The point here is producing an earnest take on high-end finishing at a price point that makes it accessible to all. And in that, Christopher Ward has succeeded.
The Twelve X is priced at $4,865 and is available for pre-order right now. A fully refundable deposit of $1,800 is required, and shipping is expected to begin at the end of October of 2024. Christopher Ward
