The Defy collection of watches from Zenith has always been something of a testbed for new ideas. We’ve seen it rendered in a wide range of materials and finishes, from carbon and ceramic, to full sapphire. Each hosting a vibrant range of colors along the way. The latest addition to the Extreme collection may not sound all that exceptional on paper, with a polished steel case and bracelet, however that manner in which that polishing has been executed transcends any traditional application of polished steel you might traditionally think of. The case, the bracelet, and even the dial itself have been polished to a mirror-like state, and the result is visually arresting.
A mirror finish presents some obvious practical challenges, which Zenith has met in a few interesting ways. Okay, so maybe this isn’t a watch that should be held to much of a practical standard, but it does house that brand’s technical showstopper, the El Primero caliber 9004, which utilizes one escapement for the timekeeping train beating at 5Hz, and another that regulated the chronograph at a blistering 50Hz. This watch is certainly an aesthetic curiosity that borders art, but it is also something that you’ll definitely want to play with on the wrist.
The dial itself is sapphire, which offers a view through to the baseplate of the movement, which has been openworked to reveal some key components of the works within. Each of the functional components have been treated to the same mirror finish, leading to a dial that will likely be challenging to read in some light conditions, but that may be beside the point here. Taken as a whole the dial presents a uniform aesthetic with the case and bracelet, making this watch more an experience altogether.
With the chronograph actuated, the dial will spin into dizzying action, with the timing seconds hand making a complete lap of the dial each second. It’s a technical marvel that fits in well with the extreme conceptual nature of the Defy collection, and can be interpreted in different manners depending on the way in which it’s implemented. Here, it reminds me of the all-chrome future envisioned in the Spongebob cartoon, which is exactly the kind of levity that works best with such a conceptual take on the base watch.
If you’ve got the reflexes to take advantage of it, this watch will allow you to track time down to the 100th of a second level of precision. It may not be practical, but it makes one hell of a statement. And that’s what the Defy collection is all about. This watch in particular demonstrates the sheer breadth of the design, which can be pushed and pulled in many directions.
The mirror polished steel case measures a healthy 45mm in diameter, though the strap or bracelet integration means the lug to lug is far more manageable, and hugs the wrist to create about as wearable a 45mm watch as you’re likely to come across. And since it’s steel, the price isn’t quite as astronomic as you might expect. The Zenith Defy Extreme Mirror is priced at $26,100, and available now. Zenith.