2025 marks the 270th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin, and the brand is kicking it off with a long anticipated modern 222 reference rendered in steel. The original 222 was released in celebration of the brand’s 222nd anniversary in 1977, and the watch would set the foundation for what we now know as the Overseas collection. It’s a momentous watch that signifies an inflection point in Vacheron’s extensive history. 40 years later, in 2022, Vacheron stunned Watches & Wonders with a new Historiques rendition of the 222 in full yellow gold, and immediately had many of us speculating as to whether or not we’d see a modern execution in steel. This week, we get our answer, and the result is exactly what you’d expect. Which is a very good thing.
Like the yellow gold example released in 2022, the new 222 in steel sticks very close to the original formula in both design and in execution. This is the brand’s integrated bracelet sport watch, but it takes a slightly different approach than the likes of the Nautilus and Royal Oak. The case measures 37mm in diameter, and 7.95mm in thickness, which is all well and good, but this watch is set apart by the bracelet, which remains quite wide as it tapers around the wrist. The watch wears more cuff-like than those other watches, but it distributes the rather minimal heft in a more balanced manner.
Vacheron has managed to capture these delicate dimensions nearly perfectly in the modern rendition of the concept. While very slightly thicker, the proportions and feel of the design remain faithful to the original idea and design. From the tone of the navy blue dial, to the inset Maltese cross at the bottom right of the case, the new steel 222 hits all the notes it needs to hit. The throwback trend is a bit long in the tooth at this point, but there will always be an appetite for well executed examples like this, that bring an absolutely timeless design back to life.
Vacheron is continuing to use their automatic 2455/2 caliber here, which also resides in the yellow gold example, and it is visible through an exhibition caseback. The finishing is worthy of appreciation and it has the Geneva Hallmark to back it up, though I’d have opted for a closed caseback if it meant sticking closer to the original thickness.
Since its release in 2022, the yellow gold 222 has been a rare sight in the wild on account of its relatively limited production numbers, $62,500 MSRP, and even higher pricing in the open market. With the steel 222, we find a slightly different equation. The MSRP of this watch is $32,000, which falls neatly inline with most of the Overseas collection. No small sum, but in a different ballpark than the gold example. The real question will be one of availability, which could easily keep this watch trading near the six figure mark, much the same as the modern 16202 and 5711. Here’s hoping that’s not the case. Vacheron Constantin
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