Urwerk’s 230 platform is proving to be quite versatile. A year after the release of the UR-230 Eagle, we’re getting a new UR-230 Polaris, which not only ditches the hood, allowing a full view of the rotating satellites, but also takes a crack at a new material and color. The design language remains familiar here, which is a good thing for this rather distinctive structure, but the case has been carved from a block of fiberglass enhanced white ceramic, creating a dramatic contrast to the matte blacks and greys under the expansive crystal. The result, called Polaris, is also seasonably on-point, not that I expect that to sway would be buyers sitting on the fence with this one.
The UR-230 is in the lineage of the previous 202, 210, and 202 references, with a vertically aligned case revealing a sweeping hour satellite tracking the time along the bottom of the design. This allows for a longer control arm to grab the passing hour block as it rotates into position, heightening the drama of the construction in the process. Each of the previous generations has welcomed special edition variations, and the 230 is proving to be no exception.
The UR-230 Polaris uses a novel case construction that involves woven ceramic, intertwined with fiberglass plies. The layers are visible when viewed up close, and allow the ceramic to be less prone to shattering upon impact. As for the color, it’s actually the fiber-based sheets that are colored white, while the fiberglass itself is light silver. This makes for a highly dynamic appearance that will shift in tone and intensity depending on the viewing conditions.
In contrast, the caliber UR-7.30 automatic movement is almost entirely black. The movement is just as interesting as the case, incorporating many of the brand’s clever solutions to not only convey their artistic vision of telling time, but also to protect the mechanism from shocks. Turning the watch over reveals a pair of turbines, through which the flow of air can be controlled by the wearer. These attenuate any large impact, protecting the more sensitive components at work. The turbines will wind the mainspring when activated, but they can be disengaged entirely, effectively turning it into a manually winding watch.
These features make the UR-230 an engaging experience, and one that you can interact with. In fact, this is a design that encourages it. There’s a sense of wonder at every corner here. Even on the dial side, while actually reading the time is shockingly efficient, the view itself is complex and, well, fun. Watches like the UR-230 (in any form) are exactly what keeps us coming back. Urwerk
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