Omega is returning to their Railmaster collection this week with a pair of new references that bring a simple, modern focus to the historic design (even if one of them uses a throwback color palette). The Railmaster, which resides in the broader Seamaster collection, has seen a number of special editions in recent years, but none feel quite as mature as what we have here, which looks to be a new foundation from which Omega can build on. That said, is it enough to separate itself adequately from the likes of the Aqua Terra?
The Railmaster was introduced alongside the Speedmaster and new Seamaster in 1957, and is often overshadowed by those more easily understood watches. The Railmaster featured a shielded inner case, making it resistant to 1,000 gauss, and a perfect companion for “engineers, industrialists, and scientists who worked around rail lines.” Not quite as sexy as being associated with the more adventurous realms of diving and space exploration, but useful nonetheless. Production of the Railmaster has not been continuous, but it’s a name that Omega has made several attempts at reviving over the past 20 years.
The newest Railmaster is being released with two variations, both in steel 38mm cases with a twisted lug design. The first uses a clean, fume grey dial with cool off-white lume. There is no date and no superfluous dial text. It’s a refreshingly modern package that sits directly in a 38mm sized hole in Rolex’s Explorer collection. The second features a brown fume dial with light brown lume and a subsidiary seconds at six o’clock. As handsome as this watch is, it muddies the water a bit in terms of what Omega is trying to do with this watch. Both are classified as ‘Heritage’ models, while only one really seems to embrace that.
However you choose to categorize these watches, taking them on their own is a different story. These new Railmaster watches use Omega calibers 8806 (grey dial) and 8804 (brown dial), both with co-axial escapements secured via full balance bridges, and both are resistant to 15,000 gauss. Both cases measure 12.4mm in total thickness, 44.9mm from lug to lug, and use a 19mm lug span, for a unique proportional presence on the wrist. Pricing for these watches starts at $5,400, and maxes out at $6,400 for the brown dial on bracelet.
With that in mind, these Railmaster models represent an attractive entry point for Omega. That also puts them, in my mind, firmly in premium-tool-watch range, and I could see the grey dial here easily being cross shopped with Tudor and pre-owned Rolex references in a way that something like an Aqua Terra is not. A 38mm Aqua Terra with a very similar case can be had for around $7,000, but this Railmaster manages to feel slightly more rugged and field ready somehow. The brushed inner portions of the lug go a long way here.
I’ve always found the Aqua Terra to be oddly proportioned, as it always seems to have too much dial space for the case, exacerbated by the hour marker design. It’s a small thing, but it lacks visual harmony to my eye. This Railmaster addresses that at every corner, and feels all the more cohesive as a result. Plus, in an era where prices only go one way, I applaud Omega for taking a reasonable approach to the market with this. Omega
Leave a Reply