Studio Underg0g continues their impressive run of collaborations this week with a new watch done in partnership with bespoke watchmaker Sartory-Billard. The watch is a stunning expression of the ethos of both brands, bringing to life a sunflower themed design through a grain guilloche pattern rendered in deep purple and gold, a familiar palette to Studio Underd0g that’s been executed brilliantly by Sartory-Billard. This is a special edition watch that will be limited to just 10 examples produced, but it further establishes the lore of the two young brands in an unexpected fashion.

We see plenty of collaborative efforts these days, and the good ones stand apart by bringing two unique perspectives into a single vision. Obviously, this goes beyond mere co-branding over a few shared colors. The SB05 Sunfl0wer is a perfect example of two ideas coming together to elevate one another in a meaningful way. Colors inspired by nature is a specialty for Studio Underd0g, and it’s a theme that has now been embraced by several collaborative partners creating high-end watches, from H. Moser, and now Sartory-Billard. Each has taken the idea into new and interesting directions, and I’d call the latest seen here today the most effective yet.

The SB05 Sunfl0wer is designed after a sunflower in full bloom. The center is a guilloche pattern that mimics the tightly packed seeds rendered in a deep purple, while the outer ring gets a different guilloche pattern in a golden color to mimic the pedals. They’ve gone a step further here by engraving lines to create actual pedal partitions that feel organic in nature. At the base of the handstack you’ll notice a green foundation which references the natural tones found in the head of the flower itself. Each area of the dial is handled beautifully by Sartory-Billard, which brings a level of refinement to the palette that feels almost surprising in nature.

This dial goes hard, but they didn’t stop there. The 38.5mm steel case was done by Voutilainen & Cattin SA, and features a lug design with a polished chamfer. Inside, they are using the calibre SMB01, a variation of the Swiss La Joux-Perret 7380 produced exclusively for Sartory-Billard. It is visible through an exhibition caseback, and offers a rather unique view. This is a relatively thin movement, allowing for a total watch thickness of just 8.5mm. There’s plenty to enjoy here beyond the dial, much of which is generally reserved for watches further up the food chain.

Only 10 examples of the SB05 Sunfl0wer will be produced, and they will be available April 4th at 3pm CEST, exclusively via Sartory-Billard. Pricing is set at €12,700. Studio Underd0g / Sartory-Billard
You can hear the founder of Studio Underd0g, Richard Benc, on The Deep Track podcast in episode 38
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