I find myself talking quite a lot about the year 1997 in these retro reviews, and for good reason, as it seems to be a nexus of creativity and originality prior to full on modern (i.e. safer) themes taking over. The year delivered some of the all-time greats (in my book, at least), such as the Zenith Rainbow Flyback, the Sinn EZM1, and the Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5060, to name a few (side note, what a trio of a collection that would be). Once again, the focus of this review falls to the same year, as it saw the release of the Lange 1 reference 101.027 as seen here in white gold with Lange’s magic blue dial. The Lange 1 was of course introduced in 1994 as part of the brand’s re-launch, but with the reference 101.027, a very different personality was brought to the forefront.
The Lange 1 was, and remains, a revelatory design that continues to exist in a league of its own. Each of the watches referenced in the opening paragraph feature a distinct design indicative of the era in which they were designed. This imparts much of the character I love about them. But this isn’t quite the case with the Lange 1. This is a design that exists outside of any era-specific qualities. It’s different, it’s unique, and yes, it’s timeless. But, it’s more than just those cliche qualifiers in person. The Lange 1 is a representation of a greater ethos at work within A. Lange & Söhne.
The Lange 1 is special at a glance thanks to its asymmetrical composition that sets each of the components of the design into their own regions of the dial. Rather than create the designs around a movement that could support it, A. Lange & Söhne created a movement that would support their design. The very idea sounds a bit strange today, but it’s become a pillar of the brand’s identity, and has allowed for the methodical evolution of their design language. It also means that this design language is nearly impossible to replicate thanks to their dedication to developing mechanical solutions to suit even the smallest details of their designs.
The asymmetry of the Lange 1 is highly structured in alignment, and quite pleasing to the eye at a glance, even if you can’t quite put your finger on why. The exact qualities of this dial are more intricate than you might imagine, and are outlined in this essay from Langepedia. It’s one thing to read about and appreciate images of this dial, but experiencing it in person is quite different. The details are small and captivating, and the scale of everything never matches what you’d expect. It’s a similar difference to seeing images of an exotic car in a magazine compared with seeing the same car on the road, in the context of regular cars. The low, wide proportions are exaggerated as a result.
Unlike an exotic car, the Lange 1 is especially subtle, measuring 38.5mm in diameter, and 9.8mm in thickness. It’s an easy footprint to get along with, but the case itself has a much bigger personality than those numbers let on. In some respects, this wears and looks closer to a 40mm watch because of the presence of this case, but it’s as comfortable and easy going as you’d expect from those measurements.
The real star here is the pairing of the white gold case with the deep blue dial. This is a combo that reads very differently from the yellow gold case with Argenté dial that was revealed to the world in 1994. It feels modern, sleek, and toned down in comparison. The one thing holding it back (along with many other Lange watches, if you ask me) is the alligator leather strap, which ramps up the formal vibes far greater than the watch itself. Thankfully, that’s a pretty easy change to make. A suede strap will work wonders here.
When it comes to A. Lange & Söhne, blue dials are quite special. They don’t often use the color, and when it does appear it generally marks some special occasion, such as the recent 50th anniversary references in pink gold (see my coverage of those watches here). This reference marked the first appearance of the color within the Lange 1 collection (as well as the first use of white gold in the collection), and lasted only five years before being phased out. This is a combination that currently does not exist within the Lange 1 collection.
All of the blue dials produced by A. Lange & Söhne over the past 30 years share a very similar deep, rich hue. Really there are only textural differences to be found. This blue can easily read as black in certain light, but when you catch it just right, the blue jumps to life. It’s interesting and complex in a way that feels very intentional. There’s not much saturation to speak of, and even at its brightest this blue could charitably be called navy, but that’s exactly what makes it so appealing. It’s mysterious, and its nature is something you’ll spend a lot of time trying to decipher.
As with every A. Lange & Söhne watch, the second star of the show is the movement, and the Lange 1 is no exception. There’s not a flurry of depth and complexity to get lost in here, as you’ll find in some of the brand’s more complicated references, but the character remains the same. This is the L901.0 used in early Lange 1 references, originally built around a Jeager-LeCoulter caliber 822 gear train. The current generation uses the updated L121.1, but I enjoy the view of this early example thanks to the additional plates that break up the large three-quarter section. These are made of German silver and emit a soft, warm tone that has become emblematic of the brand. Using the watch is quite simple, with the winding and setting managed through the crown, and the date handled by the button at 10 o’clock.
The Lange 1 reference 101.027 is special for a myriad of reasons, and you certainly didn’t need me to tell you that it’s handsome and easy to wear. The Lange 1 is a watch that has long fascinated me, and many others, and it’s often a watch that I wonder (fantasize?) just how well would fit into my own collection. While undoubtedly more interesting than many of the blunt instrument tool watches that currently occupy my watch box, I wonder just how often I’d reach for a Lange 1 to actually wear.
The Lange 1 is a watch that is perpetually held in the ‘that’s something I’d wear when I grow up’ state. As a result, experiencing this watch feels like a trip to MOMA, where I enjoy art without feeling the need to own it (not that it would fit in with the decor of my Brooklyn apartment anyway). My lifestyle is one that rarely affords the opportunity to enjoy a watch like the Lange 1, at least at the moment. The same goes for many Lange references. Like great art, I can appreciate it for what it is while contemplating its meaning without it needing to play a role in my day to day life. I am content and happy that it exists. Perhaps someday I’ll be mature enough to own and wear one with any regularity, but I have yet to reach that point.
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