Nivada Grenchen tapped into more of their heritage with the release of the F77 in 2023, a modern take on their integrated steel sport watch from, well, 1977. The watch is, and was, a clear capitalization on emerging trends both then and now, but it also brings something distinct to the table, and nowhere is that more clear than this collaboration done with Amsterdam based retailer, Ace Jewelers. This F77 is the third collaboration between these two parties, with each managing to capture a trait of the region in a subtle but effective manner. This F77, which is limited to just 50 units, might just be the most direct.
The F77 remains largely true to its original framework, but rather than a 38mm steel case, the modern has been sized down a touch to 37mm. The octagonal bezel with eight visible screw heads presents a porthole-esque design, and yes, it’s a bit on the nose. That said, I don’t think anyone will be mistaking this watch for a Royal Oak. What makes this watch unique in my eyes is the way the bracelet has been integrated into the case. It looks like a standard three link bracelet that’s been given a special adapter around the middle link to fit within the end of the case.
This collaboration does away with the dial textures, which I think is a good thing, allowing it to carve out its own territory. Instead this F77 uses a flat matte black dial with red accents, most notably in a trio of red ‘X’s, a detail that Ace Jewelers have used in previous collaborations as a symbol of Amsterdam. It creates a striking look, and while the Amsterdam connection may not be obvious to some, the overall effect is what I’d call pretty cool. A red seconds hand matches the red ‘X’s on the dial, bringing the look together.
Each of the 50 individually numbered pieces uses a Soprod P024 automatic movement, which is based on the ETA 2824 caliber. The movement sits behind a closed caseback. While the stated accuracy within 7 seconds is admirable, the 38 hour power reserve may turn some buyers off. This movement is fit within the small 37mm confines, though requires a bit of height, as the total thickness is 12.6mm, leading to a slightly tanky feel on the wrist, but nothing unmanageable by any stretch.
The Nivada Grenchen x Ace Jewelers F77 is available through the Ace Jewelers website, as well as their physical space in Amsterdam. The watch is priced from 1,050 EUR exc. VAT. Nivada Grenchen / Ace Jewelers