There are multiple layers to what we see from Ming, and not just in the arc from accessible to premium. Underneath that, there exists what they call their Special Projects Cave, which houses the brand’s conceptual framework which may or may not be applied to regular production models in time. Standout examples from the past include the 20.01 Mosaic, and the 19.CR Monopusher, among others. This week, the Special Projects Cave reveals its newest member in the Project 21, a watch that began with a prompt to Ming Thein himself: What would he create for himself, free of any constraints? The answer, more or less, is this ultra-thin hand-wound watch with a subtle but highly dynamic dial and a case constructed of tantalum. As with all Ming watches, there’s a lot more going on than can be captured in a brief description.
Ming watches are interesting at a glance, and none fit neatly into any pre-existing genre, resisting easy categorization. The design language at work is novel, and the manner in which it’s executed is often highly conceptual in nature, challenging our assumptions about what a watch needs to be considered, well, a watch. From etching index rings into the underside of the crystal, to heavily layered dial work that can split its identity, these watches often push the envelope of manufacturing. The result of this has meant that, with time, methods and concepts have evolved to greater levels of intricacy, allowing for Ming’s ever expansive creativity to flourish.
Project 21 presents us with something entirely new, though clearly in adherence to the Ming philosophy as outlined above. The design language is unmistakable, but the case feels wholly original. The monobloc case is crafted from tantalum (something of a darling material for the hippest of independent brands, at the moment), and the watch measures a mere 35mm in diameter, and 6.9mm in thickness. The case flows in a very organic manner, and it will be offered in three different finishes courtesy of partner J.N. Shapiro.
The shape of the case is almost sensual in nature, with soft lines that define the signature flared lug, and rise to a peak to accept a crystal, meaning the case is even thinner at its edge. All Ming cases have a gracefulness about their design, and this watch takes that a step further. The soft case sits in contrast to the highly structured dial, which is a dual layer situation with Femtoprint fused borosilicate with voids over CVD brass. Those voids emanate radially from the center of the dial, and play in warm earth tones that will shimmer in direct light.
The focal point of this watch can be found around back, however. Ming is using a vintage Frederic Piguet Cal. 21 here, which allows for the svelte nature of the case, and provides a bit of intrigue compared to the usual suspects. The movement looks anything but vintage thanks to being reworked and customized by Mathis Horlogerie and TitAl SA to meet Ming’s design goals. The bridges match the warm tones of the dial, and get a bead blasted finish with polished anglage, and the resulting aesthetic is quite unique.
Project 21 is a step in a new direction, and while I wouldn’t necessarily call it a dress watch, it certainly encroaches on formal territory. Ming will produce just 15 examples of this watch, each priced at CHF 32,500. Ming