It’s been four years since Ming revealed their contemporary take on the dive watch with the titanium 18.01 H41 back in 2020. The watch represented an immensely capable first crack at the genre, packing a 1,000M depth rating into a 40mm x 12.9mm footprint, not to mention the wholly unique aesthetic that came with it. I’ve long wondered what a follow up to this watch might look like, as Ming watches have experienced quite a bit of maturity in the years since. This week, we got our answer to that in the new 37.09 Bluefin. Yes, this diver is placed within the architecture of the 37 series, and it’s a move that makes a lot of sense for ergonomic reasons, but no compromises have been made to the design language.
The Bluefin does not adhere to any kind of traditional dive watch archetype, and it’s all the more interesting for it. It’s even ditched the external bezel that the H41 had. One theme that we’ve seen Ming experiment with in recent years (to amazing effect) is building up layers to the dial experience, and with the Bluefin, that concept was pushed further with dynamic transparency separating the functional elements of the dial into two planes.
The hours are indexed in Hyceram lume on the underside of the top crystal, while the elapsed time bezel is placed on the sapphire dial underneath, creating a bit of distance between the two. The internal bezel rotates with the whole dial via the second crown placed at 2 o’clock along the case, and while only the first 20 minutes are indexed, the remainder is represented in 5 minute cells that are filled in for the following 20 minutes, and outlined for the final 20 minutes, making a sensible progression to reading the elapsed time at a glance.
The overall effect is incredibly dynamic, with each angle providing a new experience to the dial as a whole. I can’t speak to practicality, especially at any kind of depth, but I love the willingness to stretch this traditional concept in new directions. The watch is perfectly capable as well, depth rated to 600m (though it was tested to 900m) thanks to the revised curvature to the front and rear crystals. All of this comes in the 37 series case, meaning it’s just 38mm in diameter, and 12.8mm in thickness, including those domed crystals. The lug to lug distance is 44.5mm, meaning this watch should wear nearly as effortlessly as the other 37 series watches, but without much compromise in functionality compared to the slightly larger H41.
I would have preferred to see them continue to work with titanium here as they did in the H41, but the reduction in overall mass should mean that this watch wears a bit easier than the H41, especially with the lug flare pulled in a bit. Ming is using a new molded FKM rubber strap in bright blue here, which picks up on the rich blue emptiness experienced in the center of the dial. Inside sits a SW300.M1 developed for Ming by Sellita with anthracite skeletonized bridges and a rotor with contrast circular brushing.
Overall this is a welcome release from Ming, and while it dials back some of the boldness seen in the H41, it presents a far more usable platform without dropping any of the dive ready bona fides. If you’re sick of seeing the same style dive watch produced from a myriad of new brands, this watch represents something purely refreshing as a step in a different direction.
Ming is planning to produce 500 units of the Bluefin this year, and pricing is set at CHF4,950. The order window is open now with shipping expected to commence later this year. Ming