Longines quietly released a handful of interesting watches this week, including a new revised pair of Spirit references that finally ditch the polished row of stars along the bottom of the dial. It was a different watch that caught my eye, however, and one that taps into the brand’s history with high-beat movements in a way we haven’t seen before. When Longines brought the Ultra-Chron name back in 2022, they did so within the confines of a diver, much like it was originally launched within back in the late ‘60s (though the concept itself goes back much further). The Ultra-Chron would go on to enjoy a relatively diverse lifespan for the brand, and it is this ground that Longines seems set to explore with the release of a new Ultra-Chron Classic.
The Ultra-Chron movement did not debut within a diver alone, however. The high frequency caliber 431 launched in 1967, and was used in more classically designed references such as the 7951 right alongside diving references like the 7970. While Longines have done a wonderful jon in recreating the Ultra-Chron diver in modern guise, they are now turning attention toward other great designs to house these high-beat calibers, and that’s exactly what we find in the Ultra-Chron Classic.
High-frequency movements are nothing new, of course, and aren’t exactly a rare sight these days, but there’s something eminently charming in capturing a mid-century aesthetic alongside its use. A high frequency movement has more opportunities to average out errors over time, leading to a great degree of accuracy. However, there is a trade off in terms of wear and tear along the regulating organ from increased movement frequency. With modern oils and materials, this doesn’t seem to be a major issue, and we see it used by the likes of Grand Seiko, Breguet, and most famously, Zenith without issue.
In the case of the Longines seen here, we do find an officially certified chronometer in the caliber L836 that’s also equipped with a silicon balance-spring, so all is well and good on that front. But it’s really the trick Ultra-Chron waveform and smooth running seconds hand that amp up the character. The old-school charm extends to the rest of the dial and case design, which captures the vintage Longines aesthetic perfectly, without feeling too forced.
Longines is offering the new Ultra-Chron Classic in both 37mm and 40mm sizing (a trend that seems to be gaining momentum), with the mostly brushed steel case measuring under 11mm in total thickness. A five link bracelet with a polished center section is available, and really brings home the mid-century vibes. It’s worth noting that there is a date aperture present here, just like original references would have had. Overall this looks to be the most eminently wearable and daily drive-able Ultra-Chron we’ve seen yet. Pricing is set at $4,000 on a bracelet, and $3,900 on leather. Longines