Longines surprised fans when they brought the retro cool Ultra-Chron diver back to market in 2022 after initially launching in 1968. The watch boasted a high frequency 5 Hz ‘Ultra-Chronometer’ movement verified with partners at TimeLab in Geneva, testing the cased movements to ISO 3159:2009 standards. Just as importantly, the watch nailed the throwback look in modern guise with a 43mm cushion shaped case and a bezel that used a sapphire crystal insert. The look is spot on, and this week Longines is introducing a new carbon case into the collection, pushing the futuristic elements a step further in ultra-lightweight fashion.
The idea of fusing a vintage design concept with a modern semi-exotic material may feel a bit strange, but it perfectly suits the original ethos of the watch. Not only does Longines have a rich history of timing around sporting events, but also of movement innovations. The Ultra-Chron was the first diver to feature a high frequency movement to be brought to market. The idea of innovation is natural to carry through into the modern variation, and provides an avenue for evolution. That’s exactly what we find with the carbon Ultra-Chron.
As the material gains momentum in this price segment, this watch represents its first appearance in a Longines. The method they employ here involves strips of unidirectional carbon fibre and epoxy resin that is set into a mould before heat and compression help it take form. At 43mm in diameter, this is not a small watch, so the use of an ultra light material works wonders, and keeps the total weight under 80 grams including the strap. This is still a diver, and it retains a 300 meter depth rating.
With this rendition, Longines is using a titanium bezel assembly with an aluminum insert, further differentiating the reference from its steel bodies stablemate. The look is clean and almost modern, even with a design that was penned in the ‘60s. The high frequency caliber L.836.6 is a time-only affair, beating at 5 Hz, or 36,000 vph. Longines have worked with Timelab to verify the accuracy standard which assures +4 / -6 seconds per day after 15 days of testing for a cased movement.
In total this is a welcome addition to the modern Ultra-Chron collection that brings a decidedly new look to the platform, and a welcome weight savings for the large footprint. The watch will be available in January with a price set at $4,900. Longines
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