Hublot is embracing LVMH Watch Week with new releases across nearly each of their collections, including a massively impressive, no-holds-barred MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, and some new pastel ceramic colors across the Classic Fusion and Big Bang collections. They’ve also added their proprietary green SAXEM material to the Big Bang Unico range, a color we have previously seen in the Spirit of Big Bang, and MP collections. SAXEM is an intriguing material devised by Hublot and their now integrated manufacturing arm located in Nyon, and in a way, it’s exactly the kind of innovation that helps push an entire industry forward.
In the past I’ve spoken of my concern about the throwback trend leading to a something of a dead end for the industry. There has to be innovation moving us ahead at the same time, whether in the form of new ideas, methods, or materials. Whatever your feelings about Hublot as a whole, there’s no denying that they’ve made strides in these realms and pushed trends towards the now rather than looking back. This has been their MO since the MDM days in the ‘80s.
SAXEM is a perfect representation of that spirit. It isn’t sapphire, but it’s close. It stands for Sapphire Aluminium oXide and rare Earth Mineral, with the earth minerals allowing for the distinct coloration while remaining bright and translucent. Hublot has produced a range of colors in the material, from rich purple to bright yellow, and while it’s most certainly loud and won’t be flying under any radars, it’s a captivating sight to behold, and science behind the material is worth a nod of appreciation.
This year, Hublot is using the material in a 42mm Big Bang Unico flyback chronograph that gets dark gray bridges and plates to contrast and tone down the bright green everywhere else. Legibility won’t be a strong suit here, but the color pairing works better than you might expect. The transparent green rubber strap is fitted via the brand’s own quick release system, meaning it can be removed with the press of a button and swapped to a surprisingly large variety of other strap options offered by Hublot. Seriously, they have a whole section of their site dedicated to straps. Including velcro options. The one downside to proprietary quick release systems like this is that it keeps you in their ecosystem, which Hublot has addressed better than many others.
The SAXEM Green Big Bang is limited to 100 units, and is priced at $116,000. As Hublot continues to develop the material, my hope is that it can be made more accessible and make its way into more collections in the process. An Orlinsky case, for instance, would look quite captivating in this material. Until then, we’ll keep appreciating these wild releases pushing Hublot into its own multiverse of style.