IWC took big steps in expanding their Ingenieur collection this year in Geneva, with new sizes, materials, and complications all finding their way into the brand’s most famous integrated bracelet design. I’ve already given a breakdown of the new releases here, and here, but I wanted to give another look at the only new 40mm Ingenieur in steel to be released with a rather unique green dial. There’s a story with the color that connects it to Brad Pitt and his character, Sonny Hayes, in the upcoming F1 movie, but that’s not exactly what makes this dial so compelling. In the weeks and months since I first saw this dial, it’s remained firmly planted in the back of my head.
Since IWC released this latest generation of the Ingenier back in 2023, reconnecting it with its Gerald Genta era roots, the dial, of all things, has become its most distinguishing feature. I’ve spoken at length about the dynamic quality of this dial, particularly in the Aqua colorway, which seems to showcase a different personality at every angle. It’s not quite as pronounced in the silver, black, and navy iterations, but with this new green dial, the effect of this quality is pushed further still.
The texture of the dial, which IWC calls a ‘grid’ pattern, creates peaks and valleys set perpendicularly to one another. These topological features paired with metallic finish create vastly different tones and hues depending on the lighting condition and viewing angle. This warm green color can shift from yellow to deep green, and the gilt accents bring another dimension not experienced in the other references within this collection. Additionally, there are no other gold accents to be found on the watch, so the pairing of this dial with these hour markers and hands lends something of a throwback vibe without actually having to rely on things like aged lume or matte textures.
The overall effect is quite enthralling, and I suspect will also be polarizing in nature. There’s no denying the unique impact of this dial, though. If you’re not sure where you fall at a glance, it’ll likely remain on your mind, which is a good thing. Be aware, images of this dial do not convey the true experience in this metal. The downside is that IWC has chosen to price this watch at a slight premium over the other Automatic 40 models, which are already in controversial territory themselves.
The rest of the watch remains largely the same, with the brand’s 32111 automatic movement inside, and the same excellent integrated bracelet. Further, like the Aqua dial, this example also gets a polished center link.
I’d love to see more brands take creative risks like this, and get away from the bog standard (and safe) colors we’re accustomed to seeing. Setting aside the movie tie-in, this watch has its own story to tell, and brings another dimension out of the new Ingenieur. The Ingenieur Automatic 40 with a green dial is priced at $12,900. IWC
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