Hermès introduced their Cut collection last year in Geneva to a warm reception as a watch that served as a perfect compliment to the existing H08. The French fashion house has since fleshed out the collection with a variety of sizes, and this year we’re getting the Cut Le Temps Suspendu. This is a concept that took home a GPHG price when it was introduced back in 2011, and this year it’s being expressed within the design language of the Cut. The result feels like a natural pairing, and is another example of the sheer creativity at work within Hermès at the moment.
The idea of Le Temps Sustpendu is to, well, suspend time. With the press of a button at eight o’clock, the hour and minute hand park themselves in a V-shape at the top of the dial. The movement continues to keep time, and the running seconds hand continues its 24 second march in reverse (another unique feature with this complication). This is an intentional surrender of the watch’s practical functionality in service to the aesthetic without the stress of actually seeing the time. You could think of it like a black screen on a smart watch that needs a press to activate. The time is there when you need it, but fades away when not, allowing the wearer control over their experience with the watch.
Of course, the watch can be worn as a regular three-hander should you so desire, and at that, it excels. The applied numerals feature Hermès’ own typeface, which bring a distinct style to the otherwise austere design. The off-center sub-dial displaying the running seconds gets a slightly different finish, and is framed by the ‘Le Temps Suspendu’ label, which is one detail I could do without here, but you could certainly argue that it’s a name that has earned its place on the dial.
The star of the show here remains the case, if you ask me. From the top down, this looks like a round, stepped case with a circular bezel framing a cushion shaped base. The case is brushed save for its namesake, the cut along the case wall which is polished. The crown is placed at the ‘point’ of the case between one and two o’clock so as not to interfere with the cut along the right side. This is a surprisingly dynamic case, with interesting angles to discover when on the wrist. The cut itself is tucked under the center line so it doesn’t really call attention to itself unless you’re viewing it from the side.
The case can now be had in 39mm sizing, and this complication brings a deep red dial within a rose gold case, a beautiful combo with this design. An opaline silver dial is also available on the brand’s excellent rubber strap. There are no steel case options at this size just yet, but it’s a configuration I’d like to see in the future. This is a design that could be pushed into different directions, much the same as the H08.
Inside sits the manufacture caliber H1912, with the module allowing for time suspension. This was developed in partnership with the mind behind Agenhor, and remains visible through an exhibition caseback. The movement feels a touch small for this size of case but that’s a small nitpick as the package comes together nicely as a whole.
Pricing is set at €28,000 for the Cut Le Temps Suspendu on a rubber strap, and from €43,000 on the full rose gold bracelet. A diamond encrusted bezel is also an option. Hermès