Formex is returning to their Field Automatic platform this week after initially introducing the watch back in 2022 with a trio of new dial colors and designs. The original concept was among the most compelling new field watch designs I’ve come across, so I’m happy to see the brand return to the formula with a second generation. The second generation of the Field Automatic brings a more complex, and more detailed design to the dial which will be offered alongside the original dial. Thing is, I’m not sure the original really needed that. But, more options is always better, right?
The Formex Field Automatic was a near perfect marriage between the case and the dial. Both were unique without competing with one another. The 40mm case is constructed in grade 2 titanium, and given a uniform bead blasted finish across its highly angular design. Oh, and it’s just 10.6mm in total thickness, with a mid case height of 8.8mm, so it looks and, more importantly, feels quite thin. It’s a muscular case, though, so it strikes a nice balance between form and function, which is important to get right when it comes to a simple field watch.
The dial of the original was defined by the stencil-like numerals that opened up to reveal lume within. They have an old-school military vibe without going too far. It’s a full indexed dial with a date at six o’clock to keep things symmetrical. The watch was launched with a slew of color variations, some quite unique, such as the matte violet, and this imbued the watch with a truly interesting and novel identity. It was all wrapped up with a nylon hook and loop passthrough strap that worked beautifully.
For the second generation, Formex is keeping the case design and proportions intact, thankfully. It even undergoes a proprietary process to increase the hardness to 900 HV for max scratch resistance. What’s new are the trio of new dials, not just in color but in design. The new dials introduce a second texture and finish with a central component that gets a sunray texture, and an angled rehaut that brings the same finish to the edge of the dial. A matte section hosts the hour markers of the same design as the original.
The new dials are rendered in three new colors: Ice Blue, Coho Salmon, and Basalt Grey. Each bring a vibrant personality to the watch that was absent from the original. That said, I felt that the design of that original design was quite suitable in its finish and texture, especially alongside the general theme of the watch. The new dial reminds me a bit of the IWC MK XVI, which went through a similar phase with dual dial finishes. It’s a vibe all its own, and on the plus side, you can’t accuse it of being boring.
The new Formex Field Automatic Gen 2 continues to use a Swiss Sellita base movement, which sits behind a closed caseback. The watch remains lightweight, and approachable. The new watches are in pre-order right now, and will be priced at $870, representing a great value in the genre. Formex
Leave a Reply