Doxa is updating their Sub 200 collection this week with a polished steel bezel that will join the existing references that use a sapphire bezel. The move brings a decidedly throwback vibe to the Sub 200 which, not surprisingly, works quite well when it comes to pretty much any Doxa. The Sub 200 was initially released in 2019, but it’s based on one of the original Sub designs of the early ‘60s, prior to the emergence of the Sub 300. Doxa is using this as their entry level, less extreme expression of the dive watch, and while it might not have the same funky personality of the 300, it’s a more approachable design overall. The addition of a steel bezel adds a bit more intrigue to the idea.
Doxa are making it clear that this new configuration is not replacing the sapphire bezel equipped Sub 200 range, and instead will be joining in all eight colorways that have come to define the brand’s aesthetic. The bezel itself is polished and fully indexed with black infill and a lumed triangle at the top. As much as I don’t care for the idea of fully polished surfaces on dive watches, this one is aimed at a more casual experience over the highly focused Sub 300 collection.
The steel case remains unchanged at 42mm in diameter, and 13.8mm in total thickness, which includes a domed crystal. The lug retains its signature curvature, twisting with the help of a polished bevel defining the slope. It’s a classically handsome case that, while a touch large, fits the wrist just fine thanks to the very reasonable 46mm lug to lug distance. The nested crown helps a bit here, as well. Overall, a perfectly wearable diver by today’s standards.
The dial here is about as straightforward as they come, with minimal test and large, fully lumed hour bars. A date is placed at three o’clock with a framed aperture for the sole complication. A simple ‘Doxa’ sits at 12 o’clock, with ‘Sub 200’ appearing at the bottom half. This execution adds to the throwback vibes in just as big a way as the steel bezel. Inside, Doxa is using a “Swiss mechanical automatic”, which is likely the same ETA 2824 base we’ve seen used in earlier models, with the same poultry 38 hours of reserve.
The newest Sub 200 is offered on a steel beads of rice style bracelet, or a color matching rubber strap which can be interchanged. Unfortunately, it doesn’t seem that the straps are available to purchase as individual items, meaning you won’t be able to mix and match. That said, the beads of rice bracelet feels like the right move with this one, especially considering the mere $40 price difference between the two.
Pricing for these newest Doxa Sub 200 models is set at$920 on a NATO, $1,050 on a rubber strap, and $1,090 on a steel bracelet. All models are available to purchase now directly from Doxa.
